A Little Bit of Everything at Noa Noa

“See this,” says Kenji Seki, bouncing around with the impish energy that endeared him to people when he was maitre d’ at Chinois on Main. “Everything custom made.”

“Everything” includes the gorgeous wrought iron chairs, the colorful rug, the Polynesian sconces on the wall and the crumpled copper front on the bar. It also includes what may be the best looking restrooms in town--also custom-made. Put it all together and you’ve got Noa Noa, 464 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, (213) 278-1904, the most extraordinary new restaurant in town.

The food by chef Ralf Marhencke is custom-made too. And unusual. The green salad has Roquefort croutons, lots of flowers and a kiwi vinaigrette. Warm oysters come in a sesame seed crust. Roasted scallops are bathed in a spicy Thai sauce and roasted breast of chicken shares the plate with purple mashed potatoes. Desserts include chocolate dim sum filled with banana mousse (don’t ask) and something called “hot passion,” which is every bit as good as its name. Entrees run $16.75 to $24. There’s a long list of single-malt Scotches, and an interesting wine list.