This Really Is Archie Bunker’s Place

They’re making a big fuss about the redecoration and renaming of one of the most comfortable restaurants in Beverly Hills. But as far as I’m concerned, Carroll O’Connor’s Place looks and feels almost exactly the same as the Ginger Man, which has been at 369 N. Bedford Drive in Beverly Hills, (213) 273-7585, for the last 12 years.

The redecoration may have lightened the walls and warmed up the room, but it remains pretty true to its saloon roots. The music from the upright piano adds just the right touch. The best thing on the menu is the burger platter (although the lamb chops aren’t bad and the pepper steak’s fine). Desserts are big and gooey, drinks are big and potent and prices are fair. If Archie Bunker won the lottery and moved to Beverly Hills, this is probably where he’d eat.