Truly Trendy : <i> These places are so hot, they’re sizzling.</i>

Atlas Bar & Grill, 3760 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 380-8400. Style: Where the incredibly chic gather to eat ordinary food. Setting: Spectacularly theatrical. Recommended: Mussels in Thai coconut broth; grilled Portuguese sausage and figs; raspberry rhubarb crumble. Cost per person: $18-$30.

Bice, 301 N. Canon, Beverly Hills. (213) 272-2423. Style: Busy Italian with high prices and snooty waiters. Setting: Large, loud and lavish. Recommended: Risotto with spinach and mascarpone; Robespierre, thin steak slices topped with arugula; breaded veal cutlet Milanese. Cost per person: $25-$45.

Campanile, 624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 938-1447. Style: Rustic Mediterranean serving trendy, simple and delicious food. Setting: High-tech romantic. Recommended: Poached mozzarella with pesto; fettuccine with mascarpone; fish soup. Cost per person: $20-$40.

Maple Drive, 345 N. Maple Drive, Beverly Hills. (213) 274-9800. Style: 72 Market St., The Sequel. Setting: Big-budget beautiful. Recommended: Cheeseburger (at lunch only); yellowtail-and-tuna tartare; foie gras. Cost per person: $20-$45.

Noa Noa, 464 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills. (213) 278-1904. Style: Perfectly polished Pacific Rim. Setting: Truly unique. Recommended: Warm oysters in a sesame seed crust; roasted scallops in spicy Thai sauce; “hot passion”--steaming passion-fruit mousse. Cost per person: $30-$50.