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THE MOVIES : WHERE TO CATCH A DINING STAR

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<i> Jenkins writes about restaurants for The Times</i>

Wherever you eat in Los Angeles, it is possible to find yourself seated next to Goldie Hawn or Madonna. But if you limit yourself to the following restaurants, you increase your chances of seeing stars.

CAMPANILE, 624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles; (213) 938-1447. Style: In a building once owned by Charlie Chaplin, rustic Italian dishes are turned out for the thirtysomething Hollywood crowd. Setting: Romantically hip, with Moorish arches and charming balconies. Recommended: Poached mozzarella with pesto and tomatoes, charred baby lamb with rosemary, rice flan. Cost per person: $20-$40.

THE CARNEGIE DELI, 300 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills; (213) 275-3354. Style: Owned by Marvin Davis, one of Hollywood’s maximum men, this deli’s got George Burns and Milton Berle on its board of directors and celebrity sandwiches on its menu. Setting: Designed deli--even the booths are padded. Recommended: Pastrami sandwich, cole slaw, cheesecake. Cost per person: $12-$18.

CHASEN’S, 9039 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood; (213) 271-2168. Style: Hollywood legend packed with old-time stars and people who come to see them. The famous chili is so popular it isn’t even on the menu. But do ask for it. Setting: Paneled den. Recommended: Smoked salmon, hobo steak, chili. Cost per person: $35-$50.

COLUMBIA BAR AND GRILL, 1448 N. Gower St., Hollywood; (213) 461-8800. Style: Wayne Rogers owns this Musso & Frank wanna-be known more for who’s eating there than for what’s being eaten. Setting: Open, bright and airy. Recommended: Crab cakes, veal chop, grilled free-range chicken. Cost per person: $15-$35.

IL GIARDINO, 9235 W. 3rd St., West Hollywood; (213) 275-5444. Style: Most people eating the remarkable Tuscan fare are apt to be very rich and/or very famous. Setting: Pseudo garden complete with Astroturf. Recommended: Risotto, tagliatelle with prosciutto and peas, veal chop. Cost per person: $30-$50.

THE IVY, 113 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood; (213) 274-8303. Style: Where powerful peo- ple eat trendy food while breathing in the perfume of Robertson Boulevard traffic. Setting: Country-cottage cute. Recommended: Crab cakes, blackened prime rib, grilled fish. Cost per person: $30-$40.

LE DOME, 8720 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; (213) 659-6919. Style: A record-industry hangout for power lunching and table hopping. Setting: Rambling bistro. Recommended: Chicken croquettes, fish soup, sweetbreads. Cost per person: $20-$40.

MORTONS, 8800 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; (231) 276-5205. Style: Hollywood’s A-list fights for tables on Monday night so they can eat good grilled food. Setting: California casual cool. Recommended: Spicy tuna sashimi salad, crab cakes, grilled chicken breast with black-bean puree. Cost per person: $35-$50.

THE POLO LOUNGE, Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills; (213) 276-2251. Style: The Promised Land of Hollywood deal making. Setting: Very pink. Recommended: Bacon and eggs, Caesar salad, cheeseburger. Cost per person: $25-$40.

72 MARKET ST., 72 Market St. Venice; (213) 392-8720. Style: The owners (Tony Bill, Dudley Moore, Liza Minnelli) are as famous as their friends who dine there. Setting: Good food, good music, good art. Recommended: Meat loaf, grilled lamb salad, chili. Cost per person: $15-$35.

SPAGO, 1114 Horn Ave., West Hollywood; (213) 652-4025. Style: The telephone is always busy, the reservations are always hard to get, the paparazzi are always outside, and the designer pizzas are always perfect. Setting: High voltage. Recommended dishes: Breaded oysters with salsa, baby lamb served with artichoke flan, duck-sausage pizza. Cost per person: $20-$40.

TRUMPS, 8674 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; (213) 855-1480. Style: Weird and wonderful food from celebrity chef Michael Roberts is served to celebrity foodies. Tea’s the thing. Setting: Sparse with good art on the walls. Recommended: Smoked chicken, shrimp, endive and walnut salad; plantains with black beans and caviar; duck with pickled pumpkin. Cost per person: $15-$35.

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