Old Timers : <i> Feeling nostalgic?</i>

Belle-Vue French Restaurant, 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica. (213) 393-2843. Style: Familiar French with a loyal following since 1936. Setting: Chintz curtains, motherly waitresses. Recommended: Crab cocktail; oysters Rockefeller; bouillabaisse (served on Fridays only). Cost per person: $20-$35.

Les Freres Taix, 1911 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake. (213) 484-1265. Style: This old-fashioned French restaurant for wine lovers has been in existence since 1927. Setting: Grotto. Recommended: Escargots; roast chicken; attereau of beef. Cost per person: $8-$25.

Musso & Frank Grill, 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood. (213) 467-5123. Style: Quality food served quickly since 1919. Setting: Old wood, old wallpaper, Old Spice. Recommended: Chicken pot pie; flannel cakes; martinis. Cost per person: $15-$20.

The Original Pantry, 877 South Figueroa, Los Angeles. (213) 972-9279. Style: Where blue and white collars have been lining up since 1924 for hefty helpings. Setting: Mess hall. Recommended: Steak; beef stew; bacon and eggs. Cost per person: $8-$15.

Pacific Dining Car, 1310 W. 6th St., Los Angeles. (213) 483-6000. Style: 24-hour politico steak and handshake haunt since 1921. Setting: Dark and clubby. Recommended: Muesli with fresh fruit; spinach salad; steak. Cost per person: $8-$35.