You Can Lend an Ear or Two to This Method

They begin arriving every year about this time and they’re as predictable as mosquitoes--but a lot more pleasant.

We’re talking about the avalanche of telephone calls and letters from friends, neighbors, relatives and strangers asking if they can microwave corn on the cob. And if so, how?

It’s a subject we covered a couple of years ago, but because there’s no let-up in the number of inquiries we get at the peak of sweet corn season, we will repeat the directions here for microwaving fresh corn on the cob.

Nothing, we think, demonstrates the microwave’s prowess better because you can place the ears of fresh corn inside, husks and all, then retrieve them minutes later, bursting with sugary goodness. The silk magically comes away with the husks and the corn’s just-picked taste seems all the richer for its having been steamed in its natural wrapper.

You can cook as many as six ears of corn at a time and keep the hot ears coming throughout your corn feast, but you should start with top-quality corn, the fresher the better.

Fresh ears will cook quicker than older ones, and not surprisingly, small ears faster than big ones.

If the husks seem dry, rinse the ears in cool water, then place no more than four ears at a time 1-inch apart on the microwave oven floor. An extra two ears can go on the shelf above, but no more because the corn won’t cook evenly.

Microwave the ears of corn, uncovered, on HIGH (100% power) using the following times as a guide:

1 ear--2 to 3 minutes

2 ears--3 to 4 minutes

4 ears--5 to 6 minutes

6 ears--7 to 8 minutes

Turn ears over and rearrange them at half time, moving those on the outside toward center and vice versa. Check for doneness after minimum cooking time by peeling husks back slightly and pressing a few kernels. They should feel springy-firm, not soft, because corn will finish cooking as it stands.

If corn seems too firm, smooth husks back into place and continue microwaving ears in 30-second increments until kernels are springy-firm.

Remove ears from the microwave and let stand, in the husk, three minutes. Let everyone shuck his or her own corn at the table (don’t forget to put out a huge bowl to catch the husks).

Serve with plenty of butter or margarine, salt and pepper, or for a change of pace, try one of these savory butter sauces.

HERB BUTTER SAUCE

1/2 cup chilled unsalted butter or margarine

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh marjoram or 1/4 teaspoon crumbled dried

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or rosemary or 1/4 teaspoon crumbled dried

Freshly ground pepper

Place butter in microwave-safe 1-pint measure. Cover with wax paper and melt by microwaving on HIGH (100% power) 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 minutes. Stir in lemon juice, marjoram, thyme and season to taste with pepper. Cover with wax paper and microwave on LOW (10% power) 2 to 3 minutes. Makes 1/2 cup.

GARLIC BUTTER SAUCE

1/2 cup melted butter or margarine

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine butter, garlic, salt and pepper in microwave-safe 1-pint measure. Cover with wax paper and microwave on LOW (10% power) 2 to 3 minutes. Strain. Makes 1/2 cup.

CHILI BUTTER SAUCE

1/2 cup melted butter or margarine

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon chili powder

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine butter, lemon juice, chili powder and pepper in microwave-safe 1-pint measure. Cover with wax paper and microwave on LOW (10% power) 2 to 3 minutes. Makes 1/2 cup.

Note: In ovens of less than 600 watts, increase cooking times about 15%.