INDIAN COOKING - REGIONAL AFFAIRS - So long to “Indian food” -- salaam to Sindhi, Goanese and all the other cuisines of India

It’s as silly to talk about “Indian food” or “Indian cuisine” as it would be to speak of “European cuisine.” India is a country so diverse that there are 15 official languages, to say nothing of hundreds of dialects. Climate, geography, religion, waves of foreign conquest and immigration have created food so varied that some say the cooking changes every few kilometers.

You certainly wouldn’t expect to find the same dishes in the hot, barren desert of Rajasthan as in the lush southern state of Kerala, which is thickly forested with coconut palms. Nor would you find the same food on the plate of a Muslim, Parsi, Jain, Jew, Sikh, Christian, Buddhist or Brahmin Hindu. In South India, you might not even find a plate, because the tradition there is to eat from a banana leaf.

Furthermore, what Indians eat is not necessarily Indian food. Chinese food is so popular that most five-star hotels boast a Chinese restaurant, and Chinese cookbooks by Indian authors are easy to come by. Calcutta, known for its Chinese chefs, is a major producer of soy sauce and other Asian seasonings.

In 1988, Thai food was introduced to India at the President Hotel in Bombay and has spread from there to other cities. You can get Mexican food in Bangalore, and Italian food is currently the rage in New Delhi. Goa, a Portuguese enclave until 1961, has the same sort of dishes you would find in Lisbon plus its own spicy specialties.

Vegetarianism is so widespread that non-meat-eaters are always provided for. When an Indian tour group breaks for lunch, the restaurant or hotel typically offers a choice of vegetarian or non-vegetarian food. In South India, a vegetarian meal may be all that’s offered. Consequently, vegetarian cookery has developed to a high level and has its own regional variations.

A new development is the rise to prominence of the chef, who until recently was regarded as a menial. In the book “Prashad,” published in India in 1986, author J. Inder Singh Kalra gives an overview of Indian cookery through the work of leading chefs.

A parallel development, especially in urban areas, is the current attention given to restaurant dining, particularly among the affluent.

Most Indian restaurant food in Los Angeles is “northernized,” as one Indian resident puts it. That means dominated by the cookery of North India, which reflects Central Asian influences (some examples are tandoor- grilled meats and the opulently sauced dishes favored by the Islamic Moghul invaders whose domination lasted some 200 years). But the extraordinary range of ingredients stocked by local Indian markets makes other kinds of cookery feasible. It is even possible to get such rare seasonings as kokum, which is the dried peel of the mangosteen fruit. Kokum is used occasionally in fish curries in Kerala and in many Goan dishes.

Fresh curry leaves have also made an appearance, and their distinctive, peppery flavor enhances three of the recipes that accompany this article. The name has nothing to do with curry powder--and curry powder has little to do with genuine Indian cookery. As Kalra writes in “Prashad,” “There is absolutely no concept--or place--for curry powder in Indian cooking.” Instead, spices should be freshly combined for each dish.

“The Western mind doesn’t understand the melange of spices in Indian food,” Kalra observed in an interview in Delhi. “Five thousand years have gone into the development of this cuisine, but it has been unknown to Westerners.” The decline of Indian cookery during the British Raj, said Kalra, contributed to this ignorance, for Indian cooks made up “phony” dishes to please British tastes.

Here in Southern California there is a great variety of authentic Indian cooking, thanks to an Indian population that represents many parts of the country. Gujarat state in the West and the Punjab have provided the greatest number of inhabitants, but there are also Goans, Bengalis, Parsis, South Indians and many others here. Some of this diversity is captured in the following recipes.

They start with rasam, a light, spicy soup that is an integral part of South Indian vegetarian meals. The recipe is from Madhu’s Dasaprakash, a South Indian vegetarian restaurant in Cerritos. The restaurant’s food represents four southern states--Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh, said owner Madhu Das, who is from Mangalore, Karnataka.

Sai Bhaji, a vegetable-legume dish eaten with rice, represents Sind province, which was once part of northern India. Sind is now in Pakistan, but a large number of Sindhis have moved to western and northern India, and the dish is well known there, said Mira Advani, a Sindhi living in Los Angeles.

Advani contributed her family recipe for the complex mixture of spinach, eggplant, tomatoes and other vegetables with chana dal (garbanzo beans). The accompanying rice is flavored with fenugreek leaves, which are known as methi in India. Advani suggests serving yogurt, mango chutney and pappadums to round out this wholesome vegetarian meal.

Rose Nair of Hawthorne, born in Bombay of Goan parents, has a lengthy repertoire of Goan dishes. One of them is the famous vindaloo, which is a standard on Indian restaurant menus in the United States. The name comes from vindhal, which in Konkani, the language of Goa, means a curry made with vinegar.

Nair emphasizes that Goan cooks use a different set of seasonings for each dish. When she makes vindaloo with pork, for example, she adds cloves, peppercorns and curry leaves, which she does not use in lamb or beef vindaloo. The generous amount of vinegar used has a pickling effect. For a more mellow flavor, the dish should be allowed to stand in the refrigerator for several days before it is served, she said. In Goa, Nair would finish the vindaloo with a dash of coconut feni, a local liquor. Here, she substitutes brandy.

Devika B. Nair (no relation to Rose) is the director of the Government of India Tourist Office in Los Angeles. Born in Trivandrum in the state of Kerala, Nair has developed an interesting Americanized version of a Kerala dish. It’s an easy entree of ground turkey combined with such typical Kerala seasonings as curry leaves, coconut, mustard seeds and turmeric.

The American touch is the substitution of turkey for the mutton (in India mutton means goat meat) that would be used in India. Nair found that American lamb did not give a satisfactory flavor and that even the leanest ground beef contained too much fat. A vegetarian herself, she prepares the dish for her husband and daughter.

Karahi Lamb comes from the Clay Pit, a restaurant with locations in the Galleria at South Bay in Redondo Beach and at the Chapman Market in Los Angeles. Owner Sunil Vora, who is from Delhi, says this full-flavored dish of lamb, green pepper, tomatoes and lots of spices represents the northern frontier, where meat cookery is a robust art. Karahi is the Hindi word for an Indian pan shaped like a wok. The word may be spelled kadhai, karhai or karai, all attempts to reproduce the Hindi sound in English.

Sada Riva Rao is from Vijayawada in the state of Andhra Pradesh. There he joined his father in catering meals for groups that sometimes numbered in the thousands. Here he is chef-owner of the Bombay Grill, a small restaurant in Hollywood. Rao still caters, producing Andhra specialties that are not served at the restaurant. One of them is Chicken Fry, which includes such seasonings as curry leaves, ginger, garlic and a ground combination of coconut and white poppy seeds. When finished, the chicken is dry rather than immersed in sauce. The final touch is a garnish of cashews and cilantro. Rao also makes a mutton fry, adding the same seasonings to goat meat, and sometimes he varies both dishes by adding spinach.

In India’s hot climate, cooling drinks are necessary. During a recent Los Angeles heat wave that rivaled the intensity of an Indian summer, the restaurant Sheesh Mahal obligingly produced a Nimbu Pani, although the drink is not on the menu. Nimbu Pani means lemon water, but this Indian drink differs radically from American lemonade because it contains salt and pepper and only a small amount of sugar.

“A lot of people drink it in the summer. It’s very refreshing,” said Somi Rehil, owner of Sheesh Mahal, which opened recently on Pico Boulevard in Los Angeles. Rehil, who is from Chandigarh, capital of Punjab and Haryana states, also owns India’s Cuisine in Tarzana.

Indian desserts tend to be very sweet, and only a handful are served at restaurants here. Madhu’s Dasaprakash departs from the usual selection by offering basundhi, a rich concoction of milk boiled down to concentrate its flavor and thicken it slightly. The reduced milk is then sweetened and flavored with cardamom, saffron and pistachios. Basundhi is not exclusive to South India, but Das said that the southern version is less sweet than northern basundhi.

TOMATO RASAM DASAPRAKASH

(Tomato-Lentil Soup)

2 tablespoons coconut oil or other oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 tablespoon grated coconut

1 to 3 serrano chiles, halved and seeded

1/2 cup toor dal

Water

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

2 tomatoes, cut up

1 teaspoon turmeric

1 teaspoon jaggery or brown sugar

Dash asafoetida, optional

Salt

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 small dried red chile, seeded

Cilantro leaves

Heat 1 tablespoon coconut oil in small skillet. Add cumin seeds and fry until seeds turn golden brown. Add coconut and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add serrano chiles and cook 1 minute, stirring. Grind mixture in blender or small food processor. Set aside.

Place toor dal in large saucepan and add 1 quart water. Bring to boil and boil until dal is soft. Set pan aside.

Soak tamarind in 3 tablespoons water 10 minutes. Squeeze tamarind to extract flavor and color. Strain tamarind liquid and set aside.

Place tomatoes in large saucepan or stock pot. Add 2 cups water, turmeric, jaggery, asafoetida and season to taste with salt. Bring to boil and simmer 10 minutes. Add water from toor dal to tomatoes.

Heat remaining 1 tablespoon coconut oil in small skillet. Add mustard seeds and red chile and saute until mustard seeds crackle. Add mustard seed mixture, cumin-coconut mixture and toor dal to tomato mixture. Boil 5 minutes. Add cilantro leaves. Cover and let stand 5 minutes before serving. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

ROSE NAIR’S PORK VINDALOO

2 1/2 pounds pork shoulder, cut in 1 1/2-inch cubes

1 cup white vinegar, about

Water

Turmeric

10 dried serrano chiles or other hot Mexican chiles, seeded

2 tablespoons spicy paprika

8 cloves garlic

1 inch ginger, peeled and cut up

1 inch cinnamon stick

20 black peppercorns

15 whole cloves

2 small onions

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds

Salt

1/4 cup oil

12 curry leaves

1/2 (4.75-ounce) jar cocktail onions, drained

1 tablespoon brandy

Cut up meat and mix with 2 tablespoons vinegar and generous dash turmeric. Combine chiles, paprika, garlic, ginger, cinnamon, peppercorns, cloves and 2 to 3 tablespoons vinegar in blender and grind. Add vinegar as needed to puree ingredients. Add onions and grind. Finally, add cumin, mustard and salt to taste and grind. Add this mixture to meat. Rinse out blender with vinegar and add. Cover and marinate in refrigerator at least 2 to 4 hours, preferably overnight.

Heat oil in Dutch oven. Add curry leaves and stir. Spoon off little of meat marinade and set aside.

Add meat with remaining marinade and cocktail onions to pot. Cook over moderate heat 45 minutes. Uncover during last 15 minutes. When meat is almost done, stir in reserved marinade and brandy. Vindaloo is best if made in advance and allowed to stand several days. Makes 8 servings.

DEVIKA NAIR’S GROUND TURKEY WITH COCONUT

1 tablespoon oil

1/4 teaspoon mustard seeds

16 fresh curry leaves

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 pound ground turkey

2 tablespoons unsweetened dried coconut

1 teaspoon garam masala

1/2 to 1 teaspoon chili powder

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup water

Heat oil in deep skillet, preferably non-stick. Add mustard seeds. When seeds start to pop, add curry leaves and onion. Cook until onion is tender and lightly browned. Remove all but about 1 tablespoon onion mixture and set aside.

Add turkey to skillet and cook until no longer pink, stirring to crumble. Add coconut, garam masala, chili powder, turmeric and salt. Stir to blend with turkey. Add water. Cover and cook over low heat 15 minutes or until water is absorbed. Stir in reserved onion mixture and cook 1 minute longer. Makes 4 servings.

MIRA ADVANI’S SAI BHAJEE AND METHI RICE

Sai Bhajee

Methi Rice

Roasted pappadums

Yogurt

Mango chutney

Serve Sai Bhajee and rice in separate containers. Accompany with pappadums and bowls of yogurt and mango chutney.

Methi Rice

1 cup basmati rice

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 large cloves garlic, chopped

1 large tomato, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh or dried methi (fenugreek) leaves

1 serrano chile, chopped

1 1/2 cups water

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

Salt

Cumin seeds

Cilantro leaves

Wash rice well, then soak in water to cover generously 15 minutes.

Heat oil in Dutch oven. Add garlic and saute until fragrant but not browned. add tomato, methi leaves and chile. Cook and stir 5 minutes. Add drained rice and 1 1/2 cups water. Add turmeric and season to taste with salt. Cover and cook 20 minutes, or until rice is tender.

To serve, garnish with cumin seeds and cilantro leaves. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Sai Bhajee

(Mixed Vegetables and Beans)

1/2 cup chana dal (dried garbanzo beans)

1/4 cup olive oil

1 inch ginger root, peeled and chopped

6 cloves garlic, chopped

1 bunch spinach, washed and chopped

1 large carrot, chopped

1 medium potato, peeled and chopped

1/2 medium eggplant, chopped

2 large tomatoes, chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

2 serrano chiles, chopped

2 cups water

1 sprig mint

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

Salt

2 teaspoons lemon juice

Cilantro leaves

Soak chana dal in water to cover 1 hour.

Heat oil in large saucepan. Add ginger and garlic and saute until fragrant. Add spinach, carrot, potato, eggplant, tomatoes, onion, chiles and drained chana dal. Add water, mint sprig, turmeric and season to taste with salt. Bring to boil, lower heat and simmer, covered, 20 minutes, or until dal is soft. Beat with electric or rotary beater until blended but not pureed. Add lemon juice and stir well. Garnish with cilantro leaves. Makes 8 servings.

CLAY PIT’S KARAHI LAMB

1 pound boneless leg of lamb

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 teaspoon ginger root, crushed

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon paprika

Dash ground cardamom

1/2 teaspoon Garam Masala

Salt

1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons oil

1 1/2 medium onions, sliced

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

3 tablespoons tomato puree

1 green pepper, seeded and sliced

1 tomato, sliced

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

Cut lamb into 1 1/2x1-inch strips. Place in bowl. Add garlic, ginger root, curry powder, cumin, coriander, cayenne, paprika, cardamom, Garam Masala, salt to taste, lemon juice and 1 tablespoon oil and mix. Marinate lamb 2 hours.

Heat remaining tablespoon oil in heavy skillet. Add onions and cumin seeds and stir-fry until onions are tender. Add lamb and cook and stir until three-fourths cooked. Add tomato puree, green pepper and tomato and cook until lamb is done. Serve garnished with cilantro. Makes 4 servings.

Garam Masala

6 cardamom pods

1 inch cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

20 black peppercorns

Dash nutmeg

Dash mace

Place cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, coriander, peppercorns, nutmeg and mace in shallow baking dish and bake at 200 degrees 2 hours. Cool, then grind to fine powder. Makes about 4 teaspoons.

BOMBAY GRILL’S CHICKEN FRY

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped ginger root

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped garlic

Water

1 (3-pound) chicken, cut up

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

1 tomato, halved and sliced

1 tablespoon turmeric

1 teaspoon hot chili powder

2 teaspoons salt

1 1/2 teaspoons unsweetened dry coconut

1 1/2 teaspoons white poppy seeds

3 cloves garlic, chopped

Spice Masala

1/2 cup oil

20 curry leaves

5 green cardamom pods

5 whole cloves

5 slivers stick cinnamon

1/4 cup raw cashews

Cilantro leaves

Combine ginger, 1 tablespoon garlic and 2 tablespoons water in mini food processor or blender and puree. There should be about 1/4 cup moist puree.

Separate chicken drumsticks from thighs. Cut breast in half lengthwise, then crosswise. Place chicken pieces in 4-quart saucepan or Dutch oven. Add onion, tomato, ginger-garlic puree, turmeric, chili powder and salt. Mix well. Add 1/2 cup water. Place over high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes.

Combine coconut and poppy seeds in mini food processor and grind or pound together in mortar. Crush chopped garlic into Spice Masala. Set mixtures aside.

Heat oil in large skillet. Add curry leaves, whole cardamom pods, cloves, cinnamon and cashews. Cook and stir until cashews brown lightly. Add chicken and liquid to skillet carefully to avoid splattering. Cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce begins to dry, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in coconut-poppy seed mixture, then Spice Masala-garlic mixture and cook 2 to 3 minutes longer. Stir often and do not allow to burn. Turn out on serving platter and garnish with cilantro. Makes 4 servings.

Spice Masala

5 green cardamom pods

7 whole cloves

7 thin slivers from cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

Combine cardamom pods, cloves, cinnamon, coriander and cumin seeds in coffee or spice grinder and grind to powder.

NIMBU PANI

(Indian Lemonade)

2 medium lemons

4 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon ground black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 cups water

Squeeze lemon juice into pitcher. Add sugar, ground pepper and salt and stir until sugar is dissolved. Add water and stir. Taste and adjust seasonings as desired. Serve with ice. Makes 4 servings.

BASUNDHI DASAPRAKASH

5 cups milk

1/4 cup sugar

5 pistachios, chopped

5 strands saffron

5 cardamom seeds, crushed

Place milk in deep skillet and cook over low heat until reduced to 2 cups. Remove from heat and add sugar, pistachios, saffron and cardamom. Turn into 4 small dessert dishes and chill. Makes 4 servings.