GOOD COOKING : Sandwiches: A Summer Alternative

Salads have long been the mainstay of light, summer meals. But now sandwiches are starting to nudge salads aside.

There are a lot of reasons for our renewed interest in sandwiches. We are now nutritionally savvy enough to know that bread is indeed the staff of life. Some of us are such bread fans, in fact, that the filling has become secondary to the quality of the bread that holds it.

And a sandwich makes a much more satisfying meal than a salad--even when the latter is accompanied by bread. A good sandwich is comforting too--which can’t be said for salads. And for summer entertaining a few simple, substantial sandwiches made with great bread are much easier to put together for a crowd than a main dish salad.

Like most culinary preparations, successful sandwiches respond to seasonal ingredients. The following sandwiches brim over with fresh, crunchy, refreshing fillings; you might even say that they’re salads between bread.

A summer-perfect, fresh-tasting sandwich is an Italian mix of sun-ripened tomato, red onion, young fennel and basil stuffed into a soft pita bread. For my taste, I prefer pita bread that is softened and warmed through, best achieved in the microwave oven on medium power (50%) with the bread wrapped in paper towels. The timing depends on how many pita breads are heated at once; it’s usually 20 seconds per pita.

ITALIAN SUMMER VEGETABLE PITA WITH FRESH BASIL

2 large tomatoes (about 13 ounces) seeded and cut into 1/3-inch dice

1 large red onion (about 7 ounces), cut into 1/3-inch dice

1/2 large sweet red pepper (about 8 ounces), cut into 1/3-inch dice

1 young fennel bulb (about 7 ounces), trimmed and cut into 1/3-inch dice

6 young spinach leaves, julienned

20 large fresh basil leaves, julienned

2 1/2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons grainy Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

3 softened pita breads, cut in halves crosswise

Combine tomatoes, red onion, red pepper, fennel, spinach and basil in 2-quart bowl. Toss well to mix.

Combine balsamic vinegar, olive oil, mustard, sugar and salt in small bowl, mix well. Season to taste with pepper. Add to vegetables. Toss gently to combine. Refrigerate 2 hours to let flavors develop.

Just before serving, drain off excess juices. Adjust seasonings to taste. Fill each pita half with about 2/3 cup vegetables. Makes 6 pita halves.

Large lavash crackers make the best sandwich spiral slices; first, the crackers are softened with water, then covered with fresh ingredients, rolled up jellyroll-fashion and later sliced. They are the perfect answer to light dining, making a great presentation on a buffet table. They are also easy finger foods. Thinly sliced ingredients and/or spreads are the ideal fillers. In this straightforward recipe, cilantro adds zest; substitute fresh basil or tarragon, if desired.

SMOKED TURKEY AND HAM LAVASH CLUB WITH CILANTRO

1 large (15-inch round) sesame seed lavash cracker

3 tablespoons honey mustard

1/2 pound very thinly sliced lightly smoked turkey

1/2 pound very thinly sliced hickory smoked ham

1 large tomato, very thinly sliced

1/2 sweet onion (about 6 ounces), thinly sliced and separated into rings

1/4 cup cilantro leaves

8 large leaf lettuce leaves, core removed

To soften lavash cracker, hold cracker under cold running water and thoroughly wet both sides. Place between 2 damp clean towels 45 to 60 minutes. Be sure lavash is softened enough to roll up without cracking. If still too dry, sprinkle with more water, then cover again with damp towels until soft and pliable.

Center softened lavash, sesame seed side down, on plastic wrap, 3 inches longer than lavash. Spread honey mustard evenly over cracker. Top with layers of sliced turkey, ham, tomato (in single layer) and onion rings. Sprinkle with cilantro leaves. Cover with lettuce leaves.

Use plastic wrap to help roll cracker up into compact roll, jellyroll-fashion. Move roll to center of plastic wrap. Wrap tightly, including ends. Refrigerate 2 to 4 hours before serving.

Serve cold, unwrap and use serrated knife to slice roll crosswise into 1 3/4-inch spirals. Makes 4 servings, 8 spiral slices.

Here, shrimp is combined with apples and cucumbers, not only stretching the shrimp but giving the sandwich great flavor and crunch. Fresh sourdough bread, sliced about 1/3 -inch thick, makes this a perfect sandwich.

CURRIED SHRIMP SALAD SANDWICH WITH APPLES AND CUCUMBERS

1 medium pickling cucumber (about 3 1/2 ounces), peeled, seeded, chopped

1/2 medium tart apple (about 3 1/2 ounces), chopped

3 tablespoons dried currants

12 large peeled cooked shrimp (about 6 ounces), cut into 1/3-inch pieces

Light mayonnaise

1 teaspoon honey

2 tablespoons plain nonfat yogurt

1 1/2 teaspoons curry powder

1/8 teaspoon salt

Red pepper flakes

6 slices fresh sourdough bread

Watercress leaves

Combine cucumber, apple, currants, shrimp, 1/3 cup light mayonnaise, honey, yogurt, curry powder, salt and pepper flakes in small bowl. Adjust seasonings to taste. Refrigerate several hours.

Just before serving, spread mayonnaise on bread slices. Divide shrimp mixture evenly between 3 slices, spreading to edge. Arrange watercress leaves over. Close sandwich with remaining bread slices. Use serrated knife to cut each in half. Makes 3 sandwiches.