Hail, Caesars! : <i> Some people judge a restaurant by the Caesar salad it makes. </i>

Chasen’s, 9039 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood. (213) 271-2168. Style: Hollywood legend packed with old-time stars and the people who come to see them. Setting: Paneled den. Caesar Salad: $8.50

Delacey’s Club 41, 41 Delacey St., Pasadena. (818) 795-4141. Style: A cross between The Grill and Musso & Frank. Ask for the “Caesar fanatic” waiter who puts his all into making a perfect Caesar. Setting: New/old kind of place with huge bar, lots of wood and Corinthian columns. Caesar Salad: $6.75

The Grill, 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills. (213) 276-0615. Style: Sensible fare served by professionals. Setting: Dark and comfy. Caesar Salad: $11.50 at lunch; $14.50 at dinner.

Musso & Frank Grill, 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood. (213) 467-5123. Style: L.A. antique serving quality food quickly. Setting: Old wood, old wallpaper, Old Spice. Caesar Salad: $10.65.

West Beach Cafe, 60 Venice Blvd., Venice. (213) 823-5396. Style: Swank artists’ watering hole. Setting: Good art on the walls; men with ponytails; Porsches in the parking lot. Caesar Salad: $7 at lunch; $8 at dinner.

The Wine Bistro, 11915 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. (818) 766-6233. Style: Bistro fare for studio expense accounts. Setting: Small with prominent bar and cozy banquettes. Caesar Salad: $5.95.