FOOD & WINE : Lasagna Without the Noodles : Light and Flavorful, This French-Style Variation Features Polenta and Seafood

THERE ARE MORE versions of lasagna than there are regions of Italy. But chef Joachim Splichal saw no reason to stop at the Italian border or to define lasagne by its quintessential ingredient, the pasta.

When designing the menu for his Melrose Avenue restaurant, Patina, Splichal was determined not to serve pasta because, he says, “there are enough noodles in Los Angeles.” Splichal understands that Italian food, because of its relaxed style, is comfortable and appealing to many people; “Italian restaurants control the city,” he says, smiling.

To avoid the pasta trap but still provide the kind of familiar foods that people want to eat, he reinvented cannelloni, spaghetti, ravioli and lasagna--without the noodles.

This is the lightest lasagna imaginable. Made with thin slices of polenta--a molded cornmeal cake--diced salmon and herbs, the resulting dish is tender and sweet. It is a far cry from the heavy meat and cheese casseroles of the past.

Purists may be alarmed by this latest California twist on an old favorite, but it doesn’t bother Italian-born Celestino Drago, one of Los Angeles’ premier pasta chefs. According to Drago, chef-restaurateur of Celestino’s in Beverly Hills, “as long as it is layered and light, anything can be called a lasagna.” At his restaurant, he serves elegant lasagnas of eggplant and tomato, ragout of venison, porcini mushrooms and goat cheese, and squid-ink pasta with seafood.

“In lasagna you find noodles,” he points out. “But Joachim is like God in the kitchen. I love what he does.” Here, then, is a little taste of heaven.

PATINA’S SALMON POLENTA LASAGNA

2 pounds salmon fillets, skinned1 bunch fresh chopped basil1 bunch fresh chopped chives6 scallions, white and green parts, chopped1/2 bunch fresh chopped Italian parsley2 teaspoons salt1 teaspoon white pepperPinch cayennePolentaVegetable Parsley Sauce Cut salmon into 1/4-inch cubes. In large mixing bowl, combine salmon, basil, chives, scallions, parsley, salt, pepper and cayenne. Mix well.

Unmold polenta. Cut into 1/8-inch slices. Arrange 24 slices on uncoated baking sheets. Divide the salmon mixture and spread on 16 slices, leaving 8 uncovered. (Pans can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated up to 6 hours.)

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Bake until salmon is medium rare, about 4 minutes.

On each serving plate, using a spatula to transfer pieces, place 1 slice of salmon-coated polenta on top of another. Top each stack with plain slice of polenta. Spoon over warm sauce and serve. Makes 8 servings.

POLENTA

5 cups water1 cup heavy cream1 tablespoon saltPinch cayenne2 cups polenta1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese Combine water and cream in large saucepan and bring to boil. Reduce to simmer and add salt. Add polenta, drizzling handful at a time into liquid, stirring constantly until mixture pulls away from sides of pan, about 20 minutes. Stir in cheese.

Pour into 9x5-inch loaf pan and set aside to cool. Cover with plastic wrap and chill at least 2 hours. Polenta can be made one day in advance. Remove from refrigerator at least 1 hour before assembling.

VEGETABLE PARSLEY SAUCE

1 pound butter, cold2 onions, chopped1 bunch celery, sliced3 leeks, cleaned and chopped2 garlic cloves, chopped4 springs thyme1 bunch Italian parsley, separated into stems and leaves1 cup dry white wine1 cup waterSalt and pepper1/2 red bell pepper, trimmed, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch diamonds1/2 yellow bell pepper, trimmed, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch diamonds Melt 3 tablespoons butter in stockpot over medium heat. Cook onions, celery, leeks, garlic, thyme and parsley stems until soft and onions are translucent, about 15 minutes.

Add wine, turn heat to high and cook until wine is reduced by half. Add water and reduce to simmer. Cook, uncovered, 40 minutes. Strain and discard vegetables. Stock can be made as much as 5 days in advance and kept in covered container in refrigerator.

Bring stock to boil in medium saucepan. Add 1/2 remaining butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring constantly with wooden spoon. Transfer warm liquid to blender. Add remaining butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, blending until sauce is smooth.

Taste; adjust seasonings with salt and pepper. Finely chop 1/2 parsley bunch (reserve other half for another dish); stir parsley and peppers into sauce, and serve.

Food stylist: Norman Stewart