RESTAURANTS : Slipping In Quietly

These restaurants have all opened recently without much fanfare. Dale’s Bistro, 361 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 659-3996. Style: Nouveau nostalgia, ‘90s style. Setting: Spartan. Recommended: Onion soup with three cheeses; roasted chicken with herbes de Provence and mustard; duck rillettes. Cost per person: $12-$20. Flora Kitchen, 460 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 931-9900. Style: Likeable cafe and takeout where the peoplewatching is almost as good as the menu. Setting: Post-modern cafe with clean lines and beautiful flowers. Recommended: Cornish game hen, breast of chicken sandwich; apple pie. Cost per person: $8-$12. North Beach Bar & Grill, 111 Rose Ave., Venice. (213) 399-3900. Style: Macho meals for low cholesterol counts. Setting: An unfussy ‘40s feel. Recommended: Oysters Rockefeller; filet steak; beer-batter shrimp. Cost per person: $15-$35. Mango Reef, 8751 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 271-7887. Style: Formerly Sugar Shack, now reopened with plastic surgery. Setting: Tropical and colorful. Recommended: Caesar salad; shrimp cocktail; tostada. Cost per person: $8-$15. O’toto, 7119 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 937-5435. Style: Adventures in eclecticism, Pacific rim style. Setting: Zen-minimalist. Recommended: Goat cheese flan with grilled Japanese eggplant; Thai papaya salad with fresh shrimp; beef tongue with epazote black beans. Cost per person: $12-$30.