The Clean, Light Flavor of Italian

The Italianization of Los Angeles continues unabated. The newest contender: Il Mito in Studio City. Like most standard-issue L.A. Italian spots these days, Il Mito has an architecturally interesting design, trendy waiters and food with clean, light flavors. One hefty exception: The veal T-bone, cooked with garlic and rosemary, is huge, a sizzling 3-D meat replica of the state of Montana.

There are grilled-fish specials, a terrific lentil soup for $3, lots of pastas and salads (a “Venetian” Caesar salad is made with radicchio), some meat dishes and, for good measure, a chicken dish called Pollo Libertino: free-range chicken!

Chef and co-owner Michael Fekr trained with Locanda Veneta’s Antonio Tommasi. He has also cooked at Chianti Cucina and Sostanza, among other places. Fekr’s credentials show in the food. But then, it has to be good: Right across the street is La Loggia, considered by many to be the best Italian spot in the San Fernando Valley. Il Mito, 11801 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 762-1818. Dinner for two, food only, $18 to $50.