TESTING : Finding the Best Bakeware

The goal of this new column is to examine similar kitchen and food products as objectively as possible.

For the first column, plain white porcelain bakeware was borrowed from eight companies for evaluation. All items were returned to the manufacturers following testing.

The bakeware included models manufactured in France, Germany, China and the Philippines. Prices ranged from $14.95 to $49. All could go directly from the freezer to the oven and were dishwasher-safe. They are recommended for use in conventional ovens, under broilers and in microwave ovens. None of the models are recommended for cooking over direct flame.

Because all lines except one included an oval baking or roasting pan, this piece was selected for the cooking experiments. An effort was made to work with similar sizes, but some models were larger than others. A round dish was tested from the eighth company.

We tossed cooked pasta with tomato sauce, then placed it in the lightly oiled bakeware and sprinkled Parmesan cheese over the top. The dishes were baked at 400 degrees for 25 minutes, then topped with shredded mozzarella cheese and broiled until the cheese melted. An effort was made to allow the cheese to come in contact with the dishes. Each model was judged on evenness of cooking, ease of cleaning--and whether staining occurred.

For the microwave testing, packaged macaroni and cheese was prepared according to the manufacturer’s directions, but the porcelain bakeware was substituted for the pan provided in the package. In some cases, ingredients from two packages were used to accommodate the dish’s capacity.

Results of the testing are reported on the accompanying chart.

EVALUATION

Porcelain has the strongest body and lightest weight of any ceramic. It is chip-resistant and more durable than either earthenware or stoneware. Even unglazed, porcelain is totally non-absorbent of food odors and flavors.

Souffle dishes were borrowed from seven of the companies (the eighth did not manufacture this piece) for evaluation. They ranged from 1 1/2- to 2 1/4-quart capacity.

One major difference between the less expensive and more expensive brands of porcelain bakeware is the detail on the pieces. Ridges on the sides of souffle dishes feel sharper on the higher-priced brands, softer (or more rounded) on the less expensive lines. The reason for this can be traced back to the manufacturing process: The more expensive lines use a casting mold fewer times before scrapping it, so it can produce sharper detail.

Less-expensive lines may also contain some impurities--black or blue specks caused by tiny bits of iron in the glaze. These do not affect the cooking quality, but are filtered out in the higher-priced lines.

Color of the bakeware can vary from stark white to creamy white, grayish or bluish. This is the result of different clays and glazes and not an indication of quality.

CONCLUSIONS

Very little difference was found in the cooking performance of the eight models tested. Only one, the Emile Henry rectangular baker, showed any sign of permanent discoloration after use. All were easily cleaned using soap and water and a plastic dish brush.

Weight differences between the brands had both positive and negative aspects. Heavier units retained heat longer but were less convenient to handle.

Other than price, appearance seems to be the biggest factor in choosing which brand to buy. If sharper detail and absence of impurities are important, purchase the higher-priced pieces.

Unfortunately, the limited time spent with the models did not afford a full opportunity to test their durability. Keep in mind that although porcelain can stand up to rougher treatment than earthenware or stoneware, it will break if dropped and may chip if hit hard. It will also crack if placed on a cold surface when very hot.

RESOURCES

APILCO--Manufactured in the Limoges area of France. The model A-141-001 souffle (2 1/4-quart capacity, $24.70) has an unglazed top rim and very distinctive ribbing on the collar and sides. The bottom is glazed with nubs.

Available at: Gelson’s supermarkets; Williams-Sonoma stores; Cook ‘N’ Things, South Pasadena; Port O’Call, Pasadena; San Marino Hardware.

BLANC DE BLANC--Manufactured in France. Each piece is embossed with a white-on-white pattern. The model BB35 souffle (2-quart capacity, $34) has an embossed fruit motif on the sides, just below the ribbed collar. It has a glazed rim and smooth, unglazed bottom.

Available at: Port O’Call, Pasadena; the Prince’s Table, Beverly Hills; Bullock’s department stores.

CORDON BLEU--Styled after the French; manufactured in mainland China. The model 900018 souffle (2-quart capacity, $15) has a glazed top rim. The bottom is slightly recessed with nubs and is glazed except for eight 1 3/4-inch nubs around the outer edge. Heavier than French counterpart, but ribbing on collar and sides is not as distinctive.

Available at: Gelson’s supermarkets; Bullock’s department stores; 3-D Bed and Bath stores; the Village Cupboard, Larchmont Village; Crate & Barrel, Century City.

EMILE HENRY--Manufactured in France using Burgundy clay. Line has a blue or purple cast. The model 3368-40 souffle (1 1/2-quart capacity, $28) has 18 sides; a small, glazed rim matches the fluting on the sides. The smooth, unglazed bottom is cream-colored.

Available at: Montana Mercantile, Santa Monica.

INSPIRATION--The line is designed in the Netherlands and manufactured in the Philippines. It has a rim around each piece, intended to facilitate handling. A basket of natural sea grass is available for each piece so it can also be used as a serving dish.

The model 200-2010 souffle (1 1/2-quart capacity, $19) has smooth sides and the aforementioned rounded rim that turns downward. The bottom is smooth and unglazed.

Available at: Cookin’ Stuff, Torrance; Adora Bella, Culver City; Pottery Shack, Laguna Beach; Village Kitchen Shop, Glendora; Kitchen World, Santa Monica; Toby’s Kitchen, Ventura; Cindy’s Kitchen Corner, Glendale; Kitchen Ware, Montclair.

PILLIVUYT--Manufactured in France. The model 260318 deep souffle (2-quart capacity, $27.30) has an unglazed top rim, smooth, glazed bottom and moderately distinctive ribbing on collar and sides.

Available at: Montana Mercantile, Santa Monica; Kitchen Things, Costa Mesa; Let’s Get Cooking, Westlake Village.

PORCELAIN PLUS--Manufactured in China. Shapes are designed with soft, round corners that prevent “hot spots” when used in microwave ovens. One-year warranty against manufacturing defects.

Line does not include a souffle dish.

Available at: Montana Mercantile, Santa Monica; Jordano’s, Santa Barbara.

THOMAS--Manufacturered in Germany.The Orbit model 51323 souffle (2-quart capacity, $39) has a matte finish with a gray cast. A rim around the top turns upward. Sides are smooth; smooth, unglazed, black bottom.

Available at: Geary’s, Beverly Hills; Between the Sheets, Corona del Mar; Tesoro, Los Angeles; Table Top International and Victor’s, Long Beach.

PRODUCT COMPARISON Make & Model Apilco Oval Roasting Pan, Model A-071-001 Price $29.50 Features Inside dimensions: 12X8 3/4-inches; unglazed bottom surface with raised nubs. Comments Cleaned very easily after both pasta and macaroni and cheese. Make & Model Blanc de Blanc Oval Baker, Model BB33 Price $48. Features Inside dimensions: 13 1/2x8-inches; smooth, unglazed bottom surface; characteristic motif on sides. Comments Cleaned easily after pasta, very easily after macaroni and cheese. Cordon Bleu

Make & Model Porcelaine de Chine, Oval Baker, Model 900055 Price $20. Features Inside dimensions: 10 3/4x7 1/2-inches; smooth, unglazed bottom surface. Comments Glaze on inside was rippled. Cleaned easily after both pasta and macaroni and cheese. Make & Model Emile Henry Maxime, rectangular baker, Model 3319-43 Price $37. Features Inside dimensions: 11 1/2x8 3/4-inches; smooth, unglazed bottom surface. Comments Model had a few iron specks in glaze. Needed more intensive cleaning after use with tomato sauce and showed some discoloration. Cleaned easily after macaroni and cheese, but again showed some discoloration. Make & Model Inspiration Medium Oval Baker, Model 201-2705 Price $16.50 Features Inside dimensions: 9 3/4x6 1/2-inches; smooth, unglazed bottom surface. Sold with seagrass basket for $20. Comments Lip added convenience in handling. Lighter in weight than other brands. Cleaned relatively easily after pasta, easily after macaroni and cheese. Make & Model Pillivuyt Deep Oval Baker, Model 222226 Price $21. Features Inside dimensions: 10X7 1/4-inches; smooth, unglazed bottom surface. Comments Cleaned easily after both pasta and macaroni and cheese. Make & Model Porcelain Plus Rectangular Baker, Model FM10 Price $14.95 Features Inside dimensions: 11X9-inches; smooth, unglazed bottom surface; rounded corners; handles on ends. Comments Cleaned easily after both pasta and macaroni and cheese. Make & Model Thomas Orbit, Model 51420 Price $49. Features Inside dimensions: 7 1/4-inch diameter; smooth, black bottom; matte finish. Comments Cleaned relatively easily after pasta, easily after macaroni and cheese.