Thai Bones

When you have a gnawing hunger for Thai food . . . Lannathai Restaurant, 4457 Van Nuys Blvd., Sherman Oaks. (818) 995-0808. Style: Tried-and-true--offers all the old favorites. Setting: Fancy with kidney-shaped swimming pool, large brass deer with real antlers and a Buddhist shrine. Recommended: Stuffed chicken wings, $7.50.

Kim Tar, 4806 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 669-1180. Style: Barbecue stand specializing in the foods of the Chiu Chow--Chinese from Thailand. Setting: No frills. Recommended: Fried hen, $5.50; barbecued spareribs, $4.

Pi Yai Restaurant, 5757 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood. (213) 462-0292. Style: Cafe offering Isaan dishes--food from Thailand’s northeastern provinces. Setting: Beige and linoleum. Recommended: Stewed pork hock over rice, $3.95.

Talesai, 9043 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood. (213) 275-9724. Style: Tiny tidbits of tantalizing Thai. Setting: Arty. Recommended: Barbecued spareribs, $7.95.

Thai House, 8657 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 274-5492. Style: Alienation, Bohemian-style. Setting: Heavy on the metal. Recommended: Barbecued spareribs, $7.50.