GUIDEBOOK : Planning New Year’s Eve in Rome

Getting there: Alitalia and TWA fly direct from Los Angeles to Rome. Economy-class fares range from about $1,000 to $1,400.

Where to stay: La Scalinata di Spagna (14 little rooms right at the Spanish Steps at Trinita dei Monti 17, telephone 011-39-6-6793006); La Residenza (elegant, spartan hotel near the Via Veneto action at Via Emilia 22, 011-39-6-4744480). Three expensive hotels: Eliseo (part of the Best Western chain; get a room with view of the French Academy gardens, Via di Porta Pinciana 30, 011-39-6-460556); Eden (a splendid roof-terrace view, near Spanish Steps, Via Ludovisi 49, 011-39-6-4742401); Excelsior (hotel of the stars and celebs, Via Veneto 125, 011-39-6-4708).

Nightclubs: For dancing, music, entertainment, food and beautiful people, try Cabala at Via dei Soldati 52, local telephone 6864250; Jackie O, Via Boncompagni 11, 461041.

Restaurants with piano: The quintessential place for people watching, although it’ll set you back a couple of hundred dollars per person if you take the trouble to spend New Year’s Eve there, is George’s, Via Marche 7, 484575 or 4745204 (the Dolce Vita restaurant). A general tip: In terms of eye-popping expensiveness, Rome is the Tokyo of the West. However, you can get wonderful food at NINO (Via Borgognona 11), at the foot of the Spanish Steps, or Da Cesare, Via Crescenzio 13, 6861227 or 6861912.

Or try the Piper Club (Via Tagliamento 9, 8415549) and/or Veleno (which means poison ) at Via Sardegna 27, 4821836, for food, disco music and high spirits. Expect to pay $200 per person to enjoy yourself in Rome at the turn of the year without skimping on food and the bubbly.

Insider discos: Hysteria and Hemingway. Ask your concierge for the whereabouts.

General comments: Fireworks have been stopped out of consideration for public safety, but this has not deterred the public from making its own flashy noises on New Year’s Eve. Stay in the big piazzas (del Popolo, di Spagna, Venezia) and keep to the curb. The terraces above can be fairly busy with firecracker-toting revelers.

If you prefer a car to crawl around New Year’s Eve, hire a limo through your hotel concierge.

For more information: Contact the Italian Government Travel Office, 360 Post St., Suite 801, San Francisco 94108, (415) 392-6206 and (415) 392-5266.