Hollywood’s Blue-Collar Canteen

In one sense, the new Hollywood Canteen is simply a working-class neighborhood diner. It’s just that the neighborhood--despite its vaguely decrepit industrial landscape--is full of film labs and editing houses and a sound stage or two. The prison-like brick-and-steel building next to the Canteen is actually a film vault. This is working Hollywood--the part of Los Angeles that is to the film industry what the city of Vernon is to meat.

Of course, like everything in the movies, Hollywood’s working class is more glittery than gritty. This diner, for instance, has to be one of the best-looking in the city. Think noir --a streamlined Deco exterior, a back room (mostly for VIPs) with beautiful burgundy leather-like booths, a counter for grabbing a bite and checking out the action.

In the morning, customers study the trades and scribble notes between bites of granola. At night, they table-hop. Tuesday, Madonna and some pals packed the back booth and passed around creme brulee .

The menu is full of steaks and chops and burgers--regular-guy food. But there’s also angel-hair pasta, glazed salmon and an oddly good-tasting vegetarian eggplant steak. A giant grilled mushroom on herbed sourdough is a nice mix of boy food and nouvelle cuisine.

Hollywood Canteen, 1006 Seward St., Hollywood. (213) 465-0961. Entrees $7.75-$20.