FOOD & WINE : Spicy Island : Hot, Exotic Sri Lankan Cuisine Features Rice, Curry and Chutney

JUST ONE YEAR ago, there were only two Sri Lankan restaurants in the United States. Now there are two in Los Angeles, with a third, Cafe Ceylon, due to open soon. Several Asian markets in Southern California will soon stock Sri Lankan-style curry powder, seasoning pastes that take the work out of making curries and even Maldive fish--sun-dried tuna exported from the Maldive Islands to Sri Lanka.

A teardrop-shaped island at the southern tip of India, Sri Lanka has a fascinating cuisine that reflects a turbulent history marked by invasions from India, conquest by the Portuguese, Dutch and English and the more benign impact of traders seeking spices, gems and other riches. The population today includes the native Sinhalese, Tamils and Burghers, who are descended from European settlers. Buddhism is the dominant religion, but there are significant numbers of Christians and Muslims, the latter descended from Arab traders and Malays.

The island’s basic meal is rice and curry. No mere mound of rice topped with curried chicken, it is a veritable banquet that includes rice plus several curries, vegetables, chutney and other condiments. Sri Lankans like their food exceedingly spicy, so a bowl of soothing, freshly grated coconut is usually provided for western tourists. The festive-occasion dish called lampries consists of rice and several curries bundled together in a banana leaf. It’s an adaptation to Sri Lankan tastes of the Indonesian parade of foods known as rijsttafel (rice table), probably introduced by Dutch traders.

In Los Angeles, modified rice-and-curry meals are available at Roma’s Kitchen, a newly opened restaurant and catering center in West Los Angeles. Roma de Zoysa Tira, who is from Colombo, the capital of Sri Lanka, turns chicken, pork, shrimp, potatoes, vegetables, lentils and cashew nuts into succulent dishes to accompany rice. At the Siri Lanka Curry House in Hollywood, the more elaborate lampries are cooked by Kusala Siriwardhane, from the city of Ratnapura.

Although curries, pappadums and chutneys are popular, Sri Lankan food is distinct from Indian food--except for certain dishes that show the influence of the South Indian states of Kerala and Tamil Nadu. The following chicken curry from Roma de Zoysa Tira illustrates typical Sri Lankan procedures and ingredients. Tira roasts and grinds her own spices for this dish.

In Los Angeles, curry leaves and fenugreek seeds can be found at Indian markets, such as Bharat Bazaar in Culver City; lemon grass at most Asian markets, such as 99 Ranch Market in Chinatown, and fresh-frozen pandan leaves in the frozen-food departments of Thai markets, including Bangkok Market on Melrose Avenue. Bezjian’s Grocery, an Armenian market on Santa Monica Boulevard, stocks ghee and spices.

ROMA’S KITCHEN CHICKEN CURRY

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

2 tablespoons cumin seeds

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

1 3- to 3 1/2-pound chicken

2 tablespoons vinegar

1 tablespoon grated ginger root

1 tablespoon minced garlic

2 teaspoons salt

1/2-1 teaspoon hot chili powder or cayenne

1/4 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

Pinch ground saffron or haldi (Indian-style turmeric)

1 3-inch piece root end of lemon grass

1/4 cup ghee

2 onions, chopped

1 3-inch piece pandan leaf

10 curry leaves

1 2-inch piece stick cinnamon

8 cloves

1 1/2 cups water

1 cup canned thick coconut milk

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

Heat heavy skillet over medium heat. Add coriander, cumin and fennel seeds and stir until fragrant and lightly roasted. Do not allow to burn. Lift skillet from heat if necessary. Grind spices in coffee or spice grinder and set aside.

Cut chicken into serving pieces, separating thighs from drumsticks and cutting breast in half lengthwise. Place chicken in deep bowl or casserole. Add vinegar, ginger root, garlic, roasted spice mixture, salt, chili powder to taste, fenugreek seeds and saffron. Mix well, cover and marinate at least 30 minutes.

Slit lemon grass lengthwise into 2 or 3 sections, leaving attached at root end. Heat ghee in Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions, lemon grass, pandan leaf, curry leaves, cinnamon stick and cloves and saute 3 to 5 minutes. Add chicken and toss until coated with the mixture. Add water and cook, uncovered, on high heat 30 minutes. Add more water if chicken becomes too dry. Turn pieces occasionally to cook all sides. Lower heat and simmer 10 minutes. Add coconut milk and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 5 to 10 minutes. Turn off heat, add cardamom and stir. Serve curry with white rice. Makes 4 servings.

Note: The curry can also be made with 2 pounds boneless lamb or beef. One-half teaspoon ground cinnamon and 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves can be substituted for cinnamon stick and whole cloves. Ground spices should be added to marinade, not sauteed.

Food stylist: Diane Elander