Making Ends Meet : It’s <i> Baaack: </i> The Casserole Returns : Budget Eating: We haven’t eaten them in years, but we recently rediscovered how great a casserole can taste.

Once upon a time a friend of mine was so broke she was afraid to go to the market because it hurt her eyes to look at the prices. Then she remembered all the you-kids-don’t-know-what-it-was-like stories she’d heard as a girl. She decided to find what techniques her family had actually used when the wolf was at the door.

Her grandparents and cousins-twice-removed were overjoyed to give her the old family recipes. It turned out, though, that all the dishes with names like “Poor Man’s Pie” called for things she couldn’t afford--a quart of cream, dozens of eggs, a couple of pounds of bacon. They were 19th-Century recipes, and in the 19th Century those things were poverty food because you didn’t have to pay cash for what you could get from your back yard.

When the current recession began, we started looking at old cookbooks for hints that might help us today, only to make the same discovery all over: Economy, like poverty, changes its meaning all the time. Lobster used to be the cheapest food in New England--servants complained when it was served more than once a week. On the other hand, for a long time chicken was a luxury food reserved for Sunday dinner (of course, these were older, more flavorful birds than those we can easily find today, and an old-fashioned roasting chicken is still a luxury). It turned out that, basically, the older the recipe, the less likely it was to be useful today.

Still, some basic principles are always the same. Careful buying is one. Scrupulously using leftovers is another. A very important one is not serving the most expensive ingredient--usually meat--as the center of the meal. Instead, you extend it with starches or vegetables--or as we like to say today, when the word “extender” has taken on a somewhat sinister connotation, you “use it as a flavoring.”

The old American tradition was to serve your meat and your extender side by side (meat and potatoes) or sometimes one inside the other (pie). This idea was so ingrained that in the late 19th Century some reformers worried about the “unwholesome” immigrant custom of cooking everything in the same pot. Those Italians with their pastas and their troubling habit of eating cheese at every course of the meal, those East Europeans with their goulash and who knew what else--they were all just asking for health problems.

Then came the recession of the 1890s and these knowing preconceptions fell to the ground. Spaghetti with meatballs, and macaroni and cheese became as American as . . . pie. The word casserole entered everyday speech.

The American adaptation of these traditional casseroles was often bizarre, though. For many decades, a lot of Americans thought “goulash” simply meant all your leftovers warmed up together. A lot of cooking that resulted from this turn-of-the-century casserole revolution seems to have been pretty dull. The names themselves--cheese loaf, egg ring, corn and hamburger mold--have a depressing sound, like the equally rootless dishes home economists are still thinking up under names like “ham skillet” and “tuna bake.”

But money-saving dishes don’t have to be dull. As the cult of the meat loaf shows, if they’re well made they can be positively beloved. Here is a selection of money-saving dishes we actually like.

Recipes, in order of appearance, contributed by Kathie Jenkins, Rose Dosti, Barbara Hansen, Charles Perry, Donna Deane, Minnie Bernardino and Ruth Reichl. The listed price reflects our actual cost, but does not include such staples as flour, salt, pepper, oil, garlic, sugar and vinegar.

SHEPHERD’S PIE

1 pound ground beef

1 large onion, chopped

Salt, pepper

1 (15-ounce) can cream-style corn

Mashed Potatoes

Saute ground beef and onion, breaking up meat with spoon, about 10 minutes or until meat is browned. Drain off fat. Season meat mixture to taste with salt and pepper.

Spoon meat mixture into bottom of lightly greased 1-quart casserole. Gently spread cream-style corn over top of beef mixture. Spread Mashed Potatoes on top of corn.

Bake at 375 degrees until bubbly, about 20 minutes. Place under broiler about 5 inches from heat source 2 to 3 minutes or until lightly browned. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Note: Pie may be assembled ahead of time, covered and chilled. Bring to room temperature and bake uncovered at 375 degrees about 30 minutes, or until bubbly, then broil about 5 inches from heat source 2 to 3 minutes or until lightly browned.

Mashed Potatoes

5 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed

1/3 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

Salt, pepper

1/2 cup hot milk

Place potatoes in saucepan and add water to cover. Bring to boil. Reduce heat slightly and cook until potatoes are tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and transfer to mixing bowl.

Mash potatoes with mixer at low speed (or pass through potato ricer), beating in hot milk and salt and pepper to taste. Beat until smooth and lump-free. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Total cost: $3.39.

Cost per serving: 85 cents for 4, or 57 cents for 6.

CHICKEN CASHEW

CASSEROLE

1 (10 3/4-ounce) can cream of mushroom soup, undiluted

1/4 cup water

1 cup diced cooked chicken

1/4 pound cashews or peanuts

1 cup finely diced celery

1/4 cup minced onion

1 (3-ounce) can chow mein noodles

Combine mushroom soup, water, chicken, nuts, celery, onion and 1/2 cup of chow mein noodles in shallow 1-quart casserole. Sprinkle with reserved noodles. Bake at 325 degrees 30 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

Total cost: $3.60 with peanuts; $4.20 with cashews.

Cost per serving: 90 cents with peanuts, $1.05 with cashews.

TAMALE BAKE

CASSEROLE

3/4 pound lean ground beef

1 small onion, chopped

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tomato, diced

2 tablespoons flour

1 cup diced Jack cheese

Cornmeal Topping

1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese

Sliced black olives, optional

Saute beef and onion together in skillet. Stir in salt, chili powder, Worcestershire, tomato and flour. Turn into shallow 1 1/2-quart baking dish. Sprinkle with Jack cheese. Cover with Cornmeal Topping. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

Cover and bake at 375 degrees 25 minutes. Uncover and bake 10 minutes longer. Garnish top with sliced black olives, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

Cornmeal Topping

1 cup milk

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon chili powder

2 tablespoons butter

1/3 cup yellow cornmeal

1 egg

1 cup diced Jack cheese

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Combine milk, salt, chili powder and butter in saucepan. Bring to boil. Gradually stir in cornmeal. Cook, stirring vigorously, until thickened. Stir in egg, Jack and Parmesan cheeses. Remove from heat.

From “Country Cooking With Flair,” copyright 1975 by the California Milk Advisory Board with Frances G. Roberson, director of home economics, as executive editor. Total cost: $3.98.

Cost per serving: $1. If black olives are omitted: 95 cents.

BABOOTIE

(South African

Lamb Curry)

1 tablespoon oil

2 pounds ground lamb

2 onions, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 (16-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons curry powder

2 tablespoons vinegar

Salt

2 firm bananas, sliced

1 apple, peeled and diced

1 tablespoon apricot jam or 4 canned (or dried) apricots, diced

1/4 cup slivered almonds, optional

Heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add meat and cook until lightly browned. Drain off fat. Add onions, garlic, tomatoes and liquid, sugar, curry powder and vinegar. Season to taste with salt.

Cover and simmer gently about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Fold in bananas, apple, apricot jam and almonds. Heat 3 minutes. Serve with steamed rice and, if desired, sweet chutney. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

From “The Co-Op Low Cost Cook Book,” published by the Consumers Cooperative of Berkeley, 1965.

Total cost: $6.15.

Cost per serving: $1.03 for 6, or 77 cents for 8.

CHOUCROUTE FOR

THE ‘90s

1 tablespoon oil

1 cup chopped onions

1/2 cup shredded peeled carrot

1 clove garlic, minced

1 (1-pound) can sauerkraut, drained and rinsed

1/2 (1-pound) ring turkey Polska kielbasa, cut into 6 pieces

1/2 (1-pound) ring turkey smoked sausage, cut into 6 pieces

6 fresh turkey breakfast sausage links

3 slices turkey bacon, diced

1 cup cubed turkey ham

1 cup low-salt chicken broth

1/2 cup dry white wine

6 small red potatoes

Salt, pepper

Heat oil in skillet over medium heat. Saute onions, carrot and garlic until tender. Add to sauerkraut.

Grill kielbasa, smoked sausage, breakfast sausage, bacon and ham. Stir into sauerkraut. Add chicken broth, wine and potatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Place mixture in large casserole. Cover and bake at 325 degrees 1 to 1 1/2 hours or until potatoes are tender. Makes 6 servings.

Total cost: $ 6.42.

Cost per serving: $ 1.07.

CHICKEN, PEPPERONI

AND PASTA

CASSEROLE

1 (3-pound) chicken

1 stalk celery and leaves, cut up

Salt, pepper

1 (12-ounce) package large-shell macaroni

2 tablespoons oil

4 teaspoons minced garlic

1 onion, chopped

5 ounces pepperoni, thinly sliced

1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

1 green pepper, cut in strips

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

Hot pepper sauce

3/4 cup chopped celery

1 1/2 cups shredded mild Cheddar or mozzarella cheese

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

Place whole chicken in stockpot and add water to cover. Add cut-up celery stalk and leaves and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer 45 minutes or until chicken is tender.

Remove chicken from pot. When cool enough to handle, remove bones, and skin if desired. Cut meat into cubes. Reserve about 1 3/4 cups chicken broth. Cook shell macaroni in remaining chicken broth until al dente, then drain well.

Heat oil in Dutch oven or large saucepan over medium-high heat. Saute garlic and onion until tender. Add pepperoni and saute 3 minutes. Stir in tomato sauce, tomato paste and reserved 1 1/2 cups chicken broth. Simmer 10 to 15 minutes.

Add chicken, green pepper, sugar, Worcestershire and hot pepper sauce to taste. Simmer 5 minutes longer. Gently fold in shell macaroni and 3/4 cup chopped celery. Add remaining 1/4 cup chicken broth if mixture is dry. Turn into 13x9-inch glass baking dish (or leave in Dutch oven, if using) and sprinkle with Cheddar cheese. Bake at 350 degrees 30 to 35 minutes or until heated through. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and serve. Makes 8 servings.

Total cost: $ 7.99.

Cost per serving: 99 cents.

RICE AND BEAN

CASSEROLE

1 1/2 cups raw rice

1/2 pound dry black beans

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 onion, chopped

1 (4-ounce) can green chiles, chopped

Salt, pepper

1 pound Jack cheese, shredded

1 pound cottage cheese

Chopped cilantro

Cook rice and beans in separate pans according to package directions. Combine with garlic, onion and chiles. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Reserve 1/2 cup shredded Jack cheese. Spread layer of rice and bean mixture in bottom of large greased casserole. Top with layer cottage cheese, then layer Jack cheese. Continue layering rice and bean mixture, cottage cheese and Jack cheese, ending with rice and bean mixture.

Cover and bake at 350 degrees 45 minutes. Sprinkle with reserved Jack cheese. Return to oven 5 minutes. Serve with cilantro and, if desired, salsa. Makes 8 servings.

Adapted from “Diet for a Small Planet.”

Total cost: $ 6.29.

Cost per serving: 79 cents.