Demiglace by Air: There’s 10 Hours Saved

D’Artagnan Inc.

399 St. Paul Ave.

Jersey City, N.J. 07306

(800)-DARTAGN

Catalogue available

Credit card only

Demiglace is the STP of French food: It’s the stuff that adds oomph to sauces and revs up soups and stews. It can give food the true depth of flavor that characterizes French cuisine.

But a good demiglace is a hard-won achievement. It starts with lots of fresh bones, fresh meat and vegetables--and ends up as a tiny bit of intensely flavored liquid. It requires at least 10 hours to produce. And these days, who has 10 hours to spare?

That’s why you should know about D’Artagnan, a New Jersey firm that ships gourmet fare to restaurants and caterers throughout the country. The firm is famous for its foie gras and fresh game birds, but as far as I’m concerned, the homemade demiglace is the best thing to come along since spaghetti sauce in a jar. Made from veal and duck bones, vegetables and seasonings that have been reduced to a highly concentrated syrup, the prepared demiglace makes great sauces a snap.

At $5 for eight ounces, D’Artagnan’s demiglace is a good buy. Postage runs high because it is shipped UPS Next Day Air. There is also a $5 handling charge for each order, so it’s prudent to order several at once and freeze them.