Negril Offers Escape From Crowds

Some young visitors to Jamaica have voiced frustration at the aggressive attitude of some vendors, particularly in Montego Bay.

Budget travelers who tire of the vendors, crowds and the high-rise hotels can go to nearby Negril, which has beachfront cabins and camping, seven miles of powder-soft sand and no buildings higher than the palm trees.

At Roots Bamboo, (809) 957-4479, which can be found tucked between the beachfront resorts about two miles north of the center of Negril, are about 20 tents and 20 tiny cabins.

On the grounds there’s a small restaurant and a beach hut where youths can arrange for hair-braiding and massages. Tents are tucked under the shade of palm trees. Bare sites for two cost about $15 per night. If you need a tent it’s $18.

Cabins with shared washrooms are $36 for two, $60 with a private washroom. The cabins and most of the grounds appear well-maintained, but the showers are bleak and the back of the property could use a cleanup.

The price may sound attractive, but before committing to camping, compare budget-hotel packages with a travel agent. Keep in mind that campers don’t have to pay the extra service charges (usually about 10%) and hotel taxes that range from $2 to $12 per night.

Bikes can be rented at the restaurant for about $5 per day. Other transportation options include a local bus, motor scooters (rentals) and taxis. Taxi fares should always be settled before beginning the trip. Transportation to the Montego Bay Airport costs $15.

If you get bored with the beach, Swept Away, one of the neighboring “all-inclusive” resorts that caters to couples ($2,300 per week), has a separate 10-acre sports complex to which you can purchase a day-pass for $10.

You also can head for the southern section of Negril, where cottages and cabins hug clifftops. In this area, Rick’s Cafe is popular for sunset viewing, and Kaiser’s Cafe offers live reggae music nightly. There’s an evening entrance fee from $7.50.

Two elements of Negril that are difficult not to notice are the ganga (marijuana), which is very evident but still illegal, and the only nude public beach (a small part) in Jamaica (although some resorts have their own private areas for their guests).

If you are interested in checking out rural Jamaica, consider the south coast, which has experienced far less touristic development than other places. Packed minibuses provide inexpensive public transportation.

About 35 miles from Negril, after rambling past the corrugated-zinc shacks surrounding the fishing village Savanna-La-Mar and roadside food vendors, you’ll reach Culloden, where there’s a cozy guest house called Natania’s. It’s a waterfront establishment with bar and restaurant, a stack of well-worn novels and rooms for $55 for two per night.

Twenty miles farther there’s Black River, Jamaica’s longest, where the Bridge House Inn, with a small beach, serves up curried goat for $3 and offers simple, comfortable rooms for $19 single and $21 double.

This puts you at the mouth of the Black. A local company, South Coast Safaris, takes travelers to search for crocodiles five miles up the river, past floating water hyacinths, mangrove swamps and snowy egrets. Several trips take place each day for $12.50 per person.

A $10 departure tax is required in Jamaican currency when you fly out of the country.

Travelers with an interest in Jamaican music should consider a visit to Montego Bay July 15-20 for the 14th annual international Reggae Sunsplash festival.

Theme for the event, which is expected to attract about 200,000 reggae music lovers, is “Unite the World Through Music.” The festival is being held at the Bob Marley Performance Center, and will pay tribute to the late reggae musician Bob Marley.

Visitors are being offered special arm-band-style VIP passes for $90, which will permit unlimited entry, including backstage, to all events.

For more information on Reggae Sunsplash passes, call (800) 344-9762 or contact the Jamaica Tourist Board, 3440 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 1207, Los Angeles 90010, (213) 384-1123.