THE European Collections : London : Classicists and Innovators Agree on One Thing: Low, Low Hemlines

The long and the short of the London collections, shown here last weekend, was definitely long, as in well below the knee. Most of the British designers--from suave classicist Jasper Conran to provocative innovator Helen Storey--made a major commitment to the mid-calf hemline for spring and summer.

The success of the look varied, generally working the best in simply cut knits.

Nichole Fahri’s spare, boat-necked dresses in appealing shades--sand, bronze and claret--of an unusual linen knit proved this point. So did Bella Freud’s long-collared, double-breasted, below-the-knee coat dresses in cotton knit. They were done in either a trellis pattern of green or red on white or in baby blue, powder pink or white. Betty Jackson showed long rayon knit shirt dresses along with updated short shorts in stretch gingham. She also did single-breasted jackets in a basket-weave fabric made of supple straw.

America seems to be very much on the mind of the British designers. American Indian-style fringe on jackets, blouses and bustiers turned up at Helen Storey and Worker for Freedon.

The ‘50s, as in bare shoulders and crinolines, was another reverberating theme, especially among those specializing in party dresses--Jenny Packham, Ben de Lisi and Monica Chong.

The collection of Tomasz Starzewski, a favorite of Princess Diana and London ladies who lunch, achieved a dynamic New York feeling through judicious use of color blocking.

Another striking development: British fashion, once known for its witty and sometimes wild eccentricity, has become very well-mannered and ladylike. Veteran designer Jean Muir, with her sumptuous knits and quality tailoring, now seems more the standard-bearer than, say, John Richmond. He showed well-cut black leather rock ‘n’ roll gear, including high-waisted bell-bottoms with a ‘70s feel.

With all of the pretty, polite clothing around, it was up to Vivienne Westwood to put a spin on the season. Showing that fashion evolves only when designers take chances, she served up a deliciously weird but wearable collection to an audience that included Boy George, Malcolm MacClaren and Simon and Yasmin Le Bon. Among her best ideas were painters’-smock dresses, especially one in metallic-printed red velvet, and a navy blazer with gold buttons and matching mid-calf, button-front skirt.

Tommy Perse, owner of the Melrose Avenue boutique Maxfield, explained why American buyers shop London: “You can find some very special things here. This time ‘round, we found some unusual accessories--great gloves, hats and handbags that will go well with Dolce & Gabbana. There is always something interesting happening in London.”