Give Barley a Chance

Poor, neglected barley. If you’ve never had it in beef-barley soup, you may never have tasted it at all.

In the United States, we tend to think of barley as fit for nothing but soup, beer and livestock fodder. That’s a rude fate for the world’s most ancient cultivated grain, dating back at least to 5000 BC.

Other countries hold barley in higher esteem. To pamper their complexions, English women boil it and drink the water. Chinese cooks stuff duck with it and the Scots distill it for their famous whiskey.

Now there are new reasons to embrace barley. Research shows that it rivals oat bran and other fiber as an antidote for high blood cholesterol and may even help prevent some forms of cancer.

Barley’s cholesterol-cutting power is believed to work in three main ways: It hinders the absorption of fats and cholesterol in the intestines; binds with bile acids that contribute to cholesterol buildup and causes them to be excreted, and contains substances called tocotrienols that help block cholesterol production in the liver. Tocotrienols may also be an anti-carcinogen.

None of this means you need to go looking for barley pills or the magic barley bullet. Fortunately, the grain comes in sundry shapes and guises from which you can prepare a variety of healthful and delicious dishes.

Hull-less, waxy barley is the best cholesterol-cutter because it contains the most soluble fiber. It’s fairly hard to find, though. (One source: Earl Peace, Rocky Mountain Grains, 310 S. 14th Ave., Bozeman, Mont. 59715; (406) 587-3686.)

In any form, however, barley contains plenty of soluble fiber and protein. Here are the most common varieties:

* PEARL BARLEY: Aptly named, because it looks like small white pearls. This barley cooks in just 30 or 40 minutes, which is one reason it’s used in most recipes. A quick-cook variety that’s pre-steamed can be prepared in as little as 10 minutes. You’ve seen it bobbing in soups, but it is also great for casseroles, pilaf dishes and puddings. You can find it in any supermarket.

* POT BARLEY: A less-refined variety of pearl barley, it needs to be soaked overnight before cooking. It resembles wheat but is lighter in color. Pot barley is available in a few supermarkets and most health food stores. Enjoy it in soups, stews, casseroles and vegetable dishes.

* BARLEY FLOUR: Found in health-food stores, it has less gluten (for binding) than wheat flour, so it doesn’t rise as well. It’s best in muffins, cookies or pancakes. Just substitute it for one-quarter of your regular flour.

* BARLEY FLAKES: Also stocked in health food stores, they look like rolled oats, but they’re thicker and more chewy. Use them for hot cereal, granola, cookies or breads.

* BARLEY GRITS: Similar to bulgur or cracked wheat, they’re prepared by parboiling. If you can find them (the best bet is supermarkets and health-food stores in the South or Midwest), they’re great in salads, baked goods or pilaf dishes.

So don’t say, “Barley, we barely knew you.” Snatch some barley off the grocer’s shelf now and whip up a grain extravaganza. To get you started, here are recipes for festive side dishes that make barley a savory center of attraction:

SAFFRON-BARLEY RISOTTO

1 tablespoon olive or vegetable oil

1/2 cup sliced leeks

1 clove garlic, minced

3 cups cooked barley (medium pearled or quick-cook)

2 large sweet red peppers, cut julienne

1/3 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

1/8 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads or 2/3 teaspoon dried tarragon leaves, crushed

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Heat olive oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add leeks and garlic and saute about 1 minute or until tender. Stir in barley, red peppers, white wine, cheese, saffron and pepper. Cook about 5 minutes or until mixture is heated through. Makes 4 servings.

Note: Barley may be cooked ahead of time and frozen.

Each serving contains:

190 calories; 6 grams protein; 31 grams carbohydrate; 5 grams fat; 0 mg cholesterol; 65 mg sodium; 60 mg calcium; 2 mg iron.

BARLEY-MUSHROOM SALAD

3/4 cup diced tomato

1 tablespoon sliced green onion

1/4 cup oil

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

3/4 teaspoon marjoram leaves, crushed

1/4 teaspoon salt, optional

1/4 teaspoon paprika

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

4 cups cooked pearl barley

1 cup sliced mushrooms

1 cup diced celery

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Place tomato, green onion, oil, vinegar, marjoram, salt, paprika and pepper in blender container and blend at high speed until smooth, about 10 seconds.

Combine barley, mushrooms, celery and parsley in large bowl. Add tomato mixture and mix well. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains:

223 calories; 4 grams protein; 32 grams carbohydrate; 10 grams fat; 0 mg cholesterol; 111 mg sodium; 18 mg calcium; 1 mg iron.

BARLEY PUDDING WITH APRICOT GLAZE

1 1/2 cups cooked and chilled barley (medium pearl or quick-cook), cooked and chilled

1/3 cup dried apricots, finely chopped

1/4 cup toasted slivered almonds

1/4 teaspoon salt, optional

2/3 cup low-fat vanilla yogurt

1/3 cup half and half, soured (add 1 teaspoon vinegar and let stand 5 minutes)

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 cup apricot preserves, warmed

Combine barley, apricots, almonds and salt in bowl and mix lightly. Combine yogurt, half and half, sugar and vanilla. Gently fold into barley mixture. Spoon into dessert dishes. Chill several hours or overnight.

Top each serving with 1 tablespoon warm preserves just before serving. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains:

280 calories; 7 grams protein; 48 grams carbohydrate; 7 grams fat; 10 mg cholesterol; 35 mg sodium; 120 mg calcium; 1 mg iron.

BARLEY-BEAN CASSEROLE WITH FRAGRANT SPICES

3 (10 1/2-ounce) cans low-sodium chicken broth

1 1/4 cups pearl barley

1 teaspoon thyme leaves, crushed

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon onion powder

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 cup sliced peeled carrots

1 cup (1-inch) pieces celery

2 cups cooked red kidney beans

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Spray 12x7-inch baking dish with non-stick vegetable spray.

Bring chicken broth to boil in large saucepan. Add barley, thyme, cinnamon, onion powder, allspice, garlic powder and pepper. Simmer, covered, 15 minutes.

Stir in carrots and simmer until almost tender-crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Add celery and simmer until almost tender-crisp, about 5 minutes. Stir in kidney beans and lemon juice. Place mixture in prepared pan. Bake, covered, at 375 degrees until barley is tender, about 15 minutes. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains:

251 calories; 11 grams protein; 51 grams carbohydrate; 2 grams fat; 1 mg cholesterol; 79 mg sodium; 55 mg calcium; 4 mg iron.

PEASANT WALNUT-BARLEY LOAF

1/2 cup pearl barley

2 cups hot water

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 cups unbleached flour

1 1/2 cups whole-wheat flour

2 packages quick-rising yeast

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons brown sugar, packed

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried

1 cup chopped walnuts

Add barley to hot water and simmer 30 minutes. Cool to temperature of 130 degrees.

Add olive oil. Combine flours, yeast, salt, brown sugar and rosemary in food processor. Add undrained barley. Process until mixture forms ball. (Add small amount of liquid or flour to soften, if needed). Remove.

On flat surface, knead in walnuts. Form into round loaf and place on greased baking sheet. Cover with towel and let rise until doubled, 35 to 45 minutes. Bake at 375 degrees 35 to 45 minutes, until bread springs back when touched. Makes 12 servings.

Each serving contains:

219 calories; 6 grams protein; 31 grams carbohydrate; 9 grams fat; 0 mg cholesterol; 359 mg sodium; 25 mg calcium; 2 mg iron.

BARLEY-FRUIT SALAD

1 1/2 cups cooked barley (medium pearl or quick-cook)

1 medium apple, chopped

1 cup strawberry halves

1 medium banana, sliced

1/2 cup seedless grapes

1/2 small cantaloupe, cut into chunks, optional

1/4 cup reduced-sugar maple syrup

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

Combine barley, apple, strawberries, banana, grapes and cantaloupe in large bowl. Mix together maple syrup, lemon juice and lemon zest. Add to barley-fruit mixture and toss to blend. Cover and chill several hours or overnight. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains:

170 calories; 2 grams protein; 40 grams carbohydrate; 1 grams fat; 0 mg cholesterol; 40 mg sodium; 18 mg calcium; 1 mg iron.