Awash in a Sea of Bad Fish : Urgent need for comprehensive, mandatory federal seafood inspection

Fish is the protein of choice for an increasing number of Americans concerned about rising levels of cholesterol and fat in their diet. But consumer advocates are ominously warning that seafood may also be the largest dietary source of toxic chemicals, pesticides and bacteria. These findings, supported by other studies of seafood quality, demonstrate the urgent need for comprehensive, mandatory federal seafood inspection.

The average American now eats about 16 pounds of seafood each year, nearly 25% more than a decade ago. But while Congress mandates inspection of all beef and poultry sold to ensure its purity, seafood goes to market without such consumer protection.

Too much of the fish and shellfish sold in markets and restaurants is tainted. Consumers Union, in a recent study, found fecal bacteria in nearly nearly half the fish it tested. Some species contained mercury and PCBs, a potential carcinogen, which pose a particular risk to pregnant women and children.

Preliminary results from a federal study survey conducted last year reveal that 20% of the imported and domestic fish analyzed in the Pacific region showed evidence of contamination, decomposition and filth. Studies by the National Academy of Sciences and The Times’ own analysis last year of raw seafood uncovered similar dangers.

Congress and President Bush have repeatedly failed to enact a seafood inspection program with teeth. Instead, the FDA last year unilaterally created its own Office of Seafood to fill the void. But the funding and enforcement authority of this office is still grossly inadequate to the task.

Wary consumers should follow safety guidelines in purchasing raw fish: Look for moist flesh with a translucent sheen; avoid fish that looks dried out. Whole fish should have clear, bulging eyes. A fresh fish smells like the sea but has no strong odor. Refrigerate fish quickly and use it within a day. Cook fish until it is opaque and flakes easily.

But these guidelines are no substitute for mandatory and vigilant federal inspection of all seafood sold. Congress and the President must act now to protect American consumers.