Creativity, But Not on the Menu

There’s been an odd trend in restaurants recently: Instead of trying to amuse us with food, restaurateurs are designing creative bathrooms. At Schatzi, for instance, you can learn a few words of German--a Berlitz tape plays over the bathroom loudspeakers. At Metro, the latest Italian spot on Melrose, a blackboard has been installed in the restrooms, with pastel-colored chalk and sample drawings provided in case you need inspiration.

The dining room itself is good-looking, interestingly decorated with machine parts from both the industrial and computer ages. Over the stereo system flapper-age-chic is the thing as Al Jolson croons his ‘20s-hip melodies.

The menu, however, is pure late-’80s, full of the sort of dependable Italian dishes we’ve come to know well in Southern California. You might sit at one of Metro’s hardwood banquettes and eat a fresh salad of tossed greens and vinaigrette, a fine plate of pasta, some risotto , a little fried calamari , a thin-crust pizza, or a mixed-grill plate with lamb and chicken and tasty sausage. One more Italian restaurant joins the club.

Metro, 7302 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 935-1678. Dinner for two, food only, $15-$60.