Ample, Honest Food at Marcello’s Family Table

Family is the most important thing at Marcello’s in Huntington Beach.

When Irma and Carlos Benevenia came to America from Argentina in 1970, they had only $350. Carlos got a job as a dishwasher at an Italian restaurant, and in 1973 the couple opened the Two Guys From Italy at Beach Boulevard and Slater Avenue in Huntington Beach. It was renamed Marcello’s (after the couple’s firstborn) in 1983. Customers were and still are frequently greeted by Marcello and his sister, Patricia, whose photographs are proudly displayed behind the cash register in the lobby of the restaurant.

The friendliness and hospitality extended by Irma and Carlos inspired many people to share their special family moments with them. Irma recently reminisced that people have stopped on their way home from the hospital to show off newborns. And employees are more than just hired help.

As manager Ether Galando says: “I’ve been here for 10 years. It’s like home to me. I couldn’t think of working anywhere else.”

The sauces and specialty dishes at Marcello’s are treasured family recipes that Carlos prepares personally in the kitchen. The rich tomato sauces are slightly heavy but seasoned with the right amount of garlic and oregano. The restaurant has twice been awarded a Silver Award from the Southern California restaurant writers.

The portions are ample, the food honest and authentic. Because of the emphasis on family, the eatery offers a bambino menu for children 10 and under ($3 to $5).

The real menu bargain is the Family Dinner, which features soup or salad, spaghetti, hot rolls and butter, beverages and a large cheese pizza. That’s enough food to feed a hungry family of four for the bargain price of $21.95 ($5.50 for an extra person).

There are also five dinner specials at $7.95, which include soup or salad, garlic bread and coffee. Entree choices include Fettuccine Verde Alfredo, flat green spinach noodles prepared in a white cream sauce with cheese; Chicken Marcello, boneless breast of chicken prepared in marinara topped with mozzarella, served with a side of spaghetti with meat sauce; and Steak Pizzaiola, top sirloin steak prepared in marinara sauce and served with a side of spaghetti with meat sauce.

Other menu items include a wide selection of poultry, veal, fish and pasta dishes, and various pizzas.

Nonsmokers will be disappointed to know that the smoking section has the better atmosphere here. Smokers get comfortable booths, dim lighting and Chianti bottles hanging from the ceiling, while the nonsmoking section has bright lighting and tables instead of booths. (Nonsmokers do, however, get some nicely painted murals.)

Marcello’s, 17502 Beach Blvd., Huntington Beach. Open Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 2 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 9 p.m. (714) 842-5505.