The Orchid of the Kitchen

It always baffles me when I hear an American use the phrase “plain vanilla,” or when American diners greet an order for vanilla ice cream with a disappointed sigh, as if the orderer had shied away from tasting something exciting.

In Mexico, you will never find such a curious reaction to this fragrant bean. It is one of Mexico’s most precious fruits, long considered by some to possess magical qualities.

According to legend, Aztec hero and general Tlacaetl discovered vanilla while on a mission to capture six young virgin maids for King Moctezuma. Enchanted by the marvelous aroma of the plants he encountered, Tlacaetl forgot about his mission and spent the next several days blissfully wandering the vanilla fields. When he finally made it home, he carried with him not the young virgins, but several bean-laden branches of the magical plant.

Impressed with Tlacaetl’s find, Moctezuma and his people forgot about the virgins and honored the general for his discovery. They dubbed the plant ixtlilxochitl (meaning “black flower” in the Nahuatl dialect), and soon the bean we now know as vanilla became a valuable commodity throughout the land.

Vanilla was also an immediate hit with the Spaniards when they arrived in the New World centuries later. Finding the native term too difficult to pronounce, the visitors dubbed it vainilla and brought it back to the European continent, where it enjoyed immediate popularity.

Today, vanilla still grows plentifully in Mexico, particularly in the state of Veracruz. In the verdant northern regions surrounding Papantla, vanilla and the vanilla harvest in December are an integral part of life. Picked when still green, the beans are left to dry for three to six months, during which time they develop their marvelous aroma.

Vanilla is used in a mind-boggling array of foods in Mexico, where its role extends far beyond the dessert table. I use ground vanilla bean and vanilla extract in a simple vinaigrette, which I drizzle over grilled fish and steamed fresh vegetables. The bean is also wonderful when added to steaming broths and seafood stews.

When buying vanilla in the United States, look for dark black beans from Mexico or Madagascar; they should be sealed in glass or plastic.

If lobster is too expensive, scallops lightly browned in a bit of olive oil and butter make a lovely alternative. The vinaigrette for this dish is fabulous over any grilled fish, as well as with steamed vegetables.

LOBSTER SALAD WITH VANILLA VINAIGRETTE

2 lobster tails

Boiling salted water

1 1/2 pounds broccoli, steamed

1 ripe avocado, peeled and thinly sliced vertically

6 ounces mozzarella cheese, cut into matchstick-size pieces

1 ounce good-quality black or red caviar

1 cup Vanilla Vinaigrette

Drop lobster tails in boiling salted water and cook 8 minutes. Remove lobster from kettle and rinse under cold water. Carefully remove flesh whole from shells. Slice each tail horizontally into 6 pieces.

Arrange small amount of broccoli at center of 4 salad plates. Flank broccoli on each side with avocado slices and then cheese matchsticks. On bottom third of each plate, arrange 3 pieces of lobster tail. Sprinkle lobster with caviar. Drizzle some Vanilla Vinaigrette over vegetables, cheese and lobster. Pass extra vinaigrette on side. Makes 4 servings.

Vanilla Vinaigrette

1 tablespoon finely chopped vanilla bean

2 small cloves garlic, crushed and minced

1 whole clove, ground

2 small allspice berries, ground

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon coarse salt

1/4 cup finely chopped shallots or red onion

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup red or white wine vinegar

1 1/4 cups virgin olive oil

Salt

Combine chopped vanilla bean, garlic, clove, allspice, sugar and salt in bowl of small food processor. Pulse several times until ingredients are finely chopped. (Mixture can also be ground with mortar and pestle.) Add shallots, vanilla and vinegar and pulse few more times until mixture forms thick sauce.

Slowly add olive oil, pulsing frequently to make smooth vinaigrette. Adjust seasonings to taste with salt and vanilla. Transfer vinaigrette to jar with lid and shake to fully combine ingredients. Refrigerate 2 hours. Reshake before using. To reinforce vanilla flavor in unused portion of vinaigrette, add 1 piece of vanilla bean to jar and let mixture macerate few days. Makes about 2 1/4 cups.