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A Beginner’s Guide to Quick Fish

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<i> Cone and Snyder are cookbook authors</i>

You shouldn’t be intimidated by microwave ovens even if you rarely venture beyond defrosting and reheating.

First, imagine that the microwave oven will be cooking the food through the use of sunlight instead of microwaves. Of course, this isn’t true, but both sunlight and microwaves are frequencies on the electromagnetic spectrum, and so they act in similar fashions.

Some of the things that we know about sunlight are: 1) It can pass through glass but not metal, 2) it melts the outside surface of an ice cube before the inside is heated through, and 3) your nose or knees, which are angled, always get more sun (they burn faster) than your cheeks or shins, which are rounded.

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Now here is how we apply this abstract knowledge to the cooking of fish. The more rounded the surface you can create, with the least angles and thin edges, the more even cooking will be overall. If thin fillets are cooked on HIGH (100% power), the thinner ends sometimes overcook. This can be avoided by tucking thinner ends underneath the middle in two folds (letter-style).

A round cooking dish is preferable because the fish can be arranged around the outside of the dish with the center space left open. The secret to much microwave cooking is the creation of this doughnut shape. In this case, it happens when the fish is arranged around the outside rim instead of being massed in the center. Creating an additional surface in the center for the microwave energy to penetrate will help the food cook faster and more evenly.

A paper-towel cover absorbs the cooking liquid and excess moisture that comes from the fish. Think of the way a thick Turkish towel absorbs beads of perspiration. Any other cover would make the dish too watery.

A light dish with a tomato accent. Serve hot with tortilla chips or cold as a sort of ceviche.

BASIC FISH FILLETS WITH DILL SALSA CRUDA

1 pound fish fillets, each 1/2-inch thick

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Lemon slices

Dill Salsa Cruda

If fillets are wider than 2 to 3 inches, cut in half lengthwise. Fold thinner ends of each fillet under thicker center in 2-fold letter fashion. Position folded fillets, seam-side down, around outside rim of 9- to 12-inch round microwave-proof serving plate, leaving center open. (2-quart rectangular microwave-proof dish may be substituted, still arranging fish in same way.)

Sprinkle fish with lemon juice. Lightly cover dish with paper towel. Microwave on HIGH (100% power) 2 1/2 to 5 minutes, or until fish flakes when pressed with finger. Drain off liquid. Cover again and let stand 2 minutes. Remove paper towel. Garnish center of platter with lemon slices and Dill Salsa Cruda. Makes 4 servings.

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Note : To double recipe, double ingredients. Arrange as many folded fish fillets as possible around outside rim of 12-inch round microwave-proof serving plate. Arrange inner circle of remaining fillets. Add lemon juice. Cover with paper towel. Microwave on HIGH 4 to 7 1/2 minutes or until done, repositioning fish from inside to outside ring halfway through cooking.

Each serving contains about:

167 calories; 236 mg sodium; 91 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 0.76 grams fiber; 34% calories from fat.

Dill Salsa Cruda

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1 green onion, finely chopped

1 pound ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill

1 tablespoon lime or lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

Combine oil, garlic and green onion in 1 1/2-quart microwave-proof casserole. Microwave on HIGH (100% power) 30 to 40 seconds, or until garlic and onion tender. Add tomatoes, dill, lime juice, salt and pepper. Stir. Microwave on HIGH 1 to 2 minutes or until just heated through but tomatoes still hold shape. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

No paper towel cover is needed here, but the sauce acts as a covering in a similar way.

FISH FILLETS WITH MUSTARD MAYONNAISE

1 pound fish fillets (sole, flounder, whiting or scrod)

1/2 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

Lemon wedges

Freshly chopped parsley

If fillets are wider than 2 to 3 inches, cut in half lengthwise. Fold thinner ends of each fillet under thicker center in 2-fold letter fashion. Position folded fillets, seam-side down, around outside rim of 9- to 12-inch round microwave-proof serving plate, leaving center open. (2-quart rectangular microwave-proof dish may be substituted, still arranging fish in same way.)

Mix together mayonnaise, mustard and lemon zest in small bowl. Spread mixture over fish fillets.

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Microwave, uncovered, on HIGH (100% power) 2 1/2 to 5 minutes, rotating dish after 4 minutes, and cooking until fish flakes when pierced with fork. Transfer fish to serving plates. Dip cut sides of lemon wedges into chopped parsley for garnish. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

224 calories; 395 mg sodium; 62 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 22 grams protein; 0.00 grams fiber; 46% calories from fat.

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