Why Are You Crying?

My first job in the first restaurant I ever worked in was chopping onions. It was a tiny creperie tucked away in an out-of-the-way corner of town and one of its specialties was a fine, traditional onion soup that it sold, practically by the gallon, at both lunch and dinner.

The owner was devoted to doing things the right way and that meant making everything from scratch. And that meant first thing every morning someone had to peel pounds and pounds of onions and then chop them into slices thin enough that they would caramelize and then practically melt away during long cooking in a little stock.

In the prep kitchen--no bigger than a closet, really--faced with two 20-pound sacks of brown onions, I took to the job with the energy of the truly naive. Big, nearly softball-sized onions were topped and peeled (the papery brown skin sticking to everything), quartered and sliced. . . . Topped and peeled, quartered and sliced. . . . Topped and peeled, quartered and sliced.

An hour later, the owner returned. When he walked into the tiny room, the air full of acrid onion fumes, his eyes filled with tears--almost certainly not of Gallic compassion.

One morning was all it took to remind me of the wonders of writing for a living, but I still love to chop onions--albeit one or two at a time. For me, there is nothing that feels more like cooking.

In a way, it was onions that drew me to cooking in the first place. It’s a silly thing really, but watching cooks chop onions on TV was so perfect and so craftsman-like: Snip, snip, snip, a series of fine slices through the length of the onion. Three more horizontally and then, working the knife point like a fulcrum, almost microscopic-sized onion bits fall away like snow. It seemed magical.

For a long time, chopping onions meant an exercise in producing the finest flakes possible. I took it as a sign of culinary maturity when I began experimenting with cuts of different sizes. For while sauces a la minute do call for as tiny a piece as possible--the goal is to have the onion melt away quickly, giving up the maximum flavor in the minimum time--other dishes call for other methods.

In stews, for example, onions minced finely will disappear completely and, even worse, they have an annoying tendency to scorch, turning bitter. You’re better off using larger pieces--even whole quarters--that will give up their savor slowly and remain slightly resistant to the bite.

(A quick fix for scorched onions, by the way, is to remove the offending pieces--provided they aren’t too bad--from the pan, wash it thoroughly, add fresh oil and start again with a mix of the scorched onions and some newly chopped ones. The sweetness of the fresh will help mask the bitterness of the scorched. Don’t try this if company is coming.)

At the opposite extreme, there is no better accompaniment for roasted meats than whole roasted onions. Simply trim the tops and bottoms so they stand upright and stick them in the roasting pan, paper and all. When they’re cooked so soft that they’ve shrunken away from the paper and will barely hold their shape, take them from the pan and peel them.

How you cut onions is, in reality, a question of chemistry. And, in fact, onions have been a subject of fascination for scientists at least since mid-1800s, though it wasn’t until 1971 that the actual basics of onion chemistry were adequately explained. They are still being refined.

“You could easily spend a lifetime studying each of the different reactions within the chemistry of the onion,” says Eric Block, an organic chemist and professor in the Department of Chemistry at the State University of New York-Albany, who is one of the leading researchers in onion chemistry.

It turns out, what we recognize as the flavor of a raw onion is a delicate balance between the onion’s natural sweetness (a molecule of which is sweeter than sugar) and the pungency of a chemical named propanethial S-oxide, a sulfur-rich oil that forms when an enzyme within the onion (allinase) combines with an organic chemical within the onion (trans-(+)-S-(1-propenyl)-L-cysteine sulfoxide, if you really want to know).

Normally, the allinase floats within the cell in vacuoles--almost cells within the cell. When pressure is applied (either by squeezing, a chef’s knife or a tooth), the enzyme and the chemicals combine and run through a chain of reactions very quickly. The first step is a series of highly unstable sulfenic acids, of which propanethial S-oxide is one. As the acids combine, thiosulfinates are among the compounds formed, which give the taste and aroma of freshly cut onions. As the onion is cooked--either by heating or by combining with other elements, such as water, vinegar or oil--these substances begin producing a whole range of compounds which, taken together, add up to subtle variations in the onion smell.

Propanethial S-oxide is extremely volatile, meaning it goes away quickly--usually right in your face, where it triggers a defense mechanism within the nose that causes your eyes to water. As Harold McGee puts it in his “On Food and Cooking”: “Unfortunately for the cook (this reaction by the onion) happens during the most intimate phase of their relationship: chopping and dicing.”

As a cook, you can use this reaction to your advantage. Since the chemical is so volatile, you have a great deal of control over how much of it remains in the dish. Even with a raw onion, soaking and squeezing in repeated washes of cold water will take out much of the sting.

Scientists who study onion flavors--yes, there are such people--also recognize such taste notes as green, sulfur, heat, fruitiness (specifically, melons like cantaloupe or honeydew) and apple. And, says McCormick & Co. flavor chemist Leslie Norris, the sulfur in onions “is synergistic. It actually boosts a lot of other flavors that are in the pot.”

“The most important and most forgotten use for onions is as a foundation flavor for other things,” says Michael Roberts, chef at Trumps restaurant and author of “Secret Ingredients.” “Like in a mirepoix, you would taste their absence rather than taste their presence. You want them to soften and you want to destroy the volatile oil, leaving an onion flavor without having that sharp aroma.

“On the other hand, for a bagel with cream cheese and lox, you want a very thin slice of Bermuda onion, because you want that really volatile aroma to cut through the salty and fishy taste of the lox and the fat of the cream cheese.”

For Thomas Keller, chef at Checkers Restaurant downtown, texture is the thing. “When you cut it finely, what you wind up with is a sweet soft product, with no crunch to it at all. Cut it large and use a longer cooking time, it will keep its resistance.”

But Marc Meneau, three-star chef at L’Esperance in Vezelay, probably said it best: “I must understand onions. When I know how to cook onions, then I will be good.”

This recipe calls for a combination of lard and olive oil. If you object to lard, you may substitute olive oil.

MARCELLA HAZAN’S SPAGHETTI WITH SMOTHERED ONIONS

1 1/2 tablespoons lard

5 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 pounds onions, sliced very thin

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1/2 pound spaghetti

4 to 5 quarts boiling salted water

1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Place lard, olive oil and onions in large saute pan. Cover pan and turn heat on very low. Cook 45 minutes.

Uncover pan, raise heat to medium-high and cook onions until dark, deep gold. (Onions will throw off much liquid. Liquid will evaporate by time onions are well browned.)

Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Onions are sweet, and need adequate amount of seasonings.) Add wine and raise heat to high. Stir until wine has evaporated. Add parsley, stir and remove from heat.

Cook spaghetti until al dente in boiling salted water. When nearly done, turn heat on pan with onions to medium-low. Drain pasta. Add to onions and toss over medium-high heat about 30 seconds.

Turn into warm serving bowl. Add cheese, toss thoroughly and serve at once. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

507 calories; 230 mg sodium; 11 mg cholesterol; 25 grams fat; 55 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 0.94 grams fiber; 44% calories from fat.

CARLO MIDDIONE’S SWEET AND SOUR BABY ONIONS

1/4 cup unsalted butter

2 pounds small white boiling onions, peeled

1/3 cup sugar

1 cup white wine vinegar

1 cup water

Freshly ground pepper

Combine butter, onions, sugar, vinegar, water and pepper to taste in heavy saucepan. Cover with lid and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer onions about 40 minutes, shaking pan often and occasionally stirring onions, being careful not to break.

When onions are glossy and begin to turn brown, test for doneness with wood skewer, which should push easily into onions. Do not cook until mushy.

Uncover pan and continue cooking onions. Let sugar caramelize, shaking pan often. If there is lot of liquid, turn heat on high. Remove from heat just before onions turn dark.

If onions are glazed, cooked and liquid has not reduced, remove onions with slotted spoon and set aside. Finish reducing juices and sugar over medium heat until thick and dark. Remove pan from heat and let cool few minutes. Pour juice over onions. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

118 calories; 4 mg sodium; 15 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.50 gram fiber; 45% calories from fat.

In this salad the onions are sliced first, then slowly baked so that each slice caramelizes to a golden brown and turns meltingly tender. The resulting sweetness is played against the peppery salad dressing.

PAULA WOLFERT’S SIRACUSAN BAKED ONION SLICES

5 medium onions

5 tablespoons olive oil

1 small clove garlic, minced

1/4 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper or to taste

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

2 tablespoons water

4 dashes freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon red or white wine vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

Trim off one end of each onion and discard. Cut onions into 5/8-inch-thick slices, leaving skin on. Discard other ends. Place onions on oiled baking sheet. Brush lightly with olive oil. Bake at 300 degrees 1 hour. Turn slices with spatula and continue baking 30 minutes. Onions should be caramelized but not burned.

Using spatula, transfer slices to wide, shallow serving dish. Remove skin and any dried-out rings. Mix remaining olive oil with garlic, crushed hot pepper, parsley, water, black pepper, vinegar and salt. Spoon mixture over onions. Serve at room temperature. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

119 calories; 198 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.31 gram fiber; 86% calories from fat.

MARCELLA HAZAN’S PEARL ONIONS WITH PANCETTA AND ROSEMARY

Water

1 pound pearl onions

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

6 ounces pancetta, cut into very narrow strips

1 teaspoon whole fresh or chopped dried rosemary leaves

2 tablespoons wine vinegar

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

In saucepan, bring enough water to boil to cover pearl onions. When water reaches rolling boil, add onions. Cook 5 minutes after water returns to boil, then drain. As soon as onions are cool enough to handle, peel and make cross cut into root end.

Heat olive oil and butter in large skillet or saute pan with lid (large enough to acomodate onions without crowding). Add pancetta and rosemary and turn heat to medium-high. Cook uncovered until lightly browned but not crisp.

Add onions and cook until lightly browned, turning occasionally.

Add vinegar, salt, pepper and 1/3 cup water. Turn onions once or twice, then cover pan and turn heat to low. Cook until onions are tender, turning occasionally. (Large onions will take longer to cook and more water may be needed. Do not, however, add any more than 1/4 cup water at time, or onions will cook with too much moisture, becoming soggy and losing intensity of flavor.) Serve at once. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

237 calories; 277 mg sodium; 24 mg cholesterol; 23 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.37 gram fiber; 87% calories from fat.

“This is truly a Cantonese classic,” writes Eileen Yin-Fei Lo in her Dim Sum cookbook. “When fresh ginger is available, the Cantonese always demand that this noodle dish be made with ji geung, which translates into ‘baby boy ginger.’ ”

EILEEN YIN-FEI LO’S NOODLES WITH GINGER AND GREEN ONIONS

8 cups cold water

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 pound fresh egg noodles, flat, like linguine

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1/4 cup shredded young ginger root, or 3 tablespoons shredded regular ginger root

1 cup 1 1/2-inch sliced green onions with white portions quartered lengthwise

Sauce

Place water and salt in large pot and bring to boil. Add noodles and cook 30 seconds, or until al dente, stirring and loosening with chopstick or fork while cooking. Remove from heat, run cold water into pot and drain noodles immediately through strainer.

Place noodles back in pot and fill with cold water. Mix with hands and drain noodles again through strainer. Repeat once more until noodles are cool. Allow to drain 10 to 15 minutes, loosening with chopsticks to assist draining. Reserve.

Heat wok over high heat 45 seconds. Add peanut oil, turning to coat wok. When wisp of white smoke appears, add ginger and stir-fry 30 seconds. Add noodles and mix well with ginger until noodles become very hot.

Add green onions and mix well. Cook 1 minute. Make well in center of wok, stir Sauce and pour into well. Cook 1 minute, mixing well, making certain noodles are well coated. Turn heat off, transfer to preheated serving dish and serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

Sauce

1 1/2 tablespoons oyster sauce

1 1/2 teaspoons light soy sauce

3/4 teaspoon sugar

3 tablespoons chicken broth

1 teaspoon sesame oil

Dash white pepper

Combine oyster sauce, soy sauce, sugar, chicken broth, sesame oil and white pepper.

In France, tarte a l’oignon is usually served as a side dish with meat. This recipe for the classic comes from Elizabeth David’s “French Country Cooking.”

TARTE A L’OIGNON

1 cup flour

1 cup butter

Salt

1 to 2 tablespoons water

Onion Filling

Knead flour, butter and dash salt with enough water to make short crust. Let rest while preparing Onion Filling.

Roll out pastry and spread in pie pan. Add Onion Filling and bake at 350 degrees until crust is light golden color, 30 to 35 minutes. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

338 calories; 283 mg sodium; 131 mg cholesterol; 24 grams fat; 24 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.55 grams fiber; 63% calories from fat.

Onion Filling

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 1/2 to 2 pounds onions, diced

2 eggs, beaten

2 ounces Swiss cheese, shredded

Melt butter in pan and cook onions covered over low heat until tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in eggs and cheese.

The aromatic onion-juice marinade used in this dish is the most elegant way to flavor broiled meat with onions. However, there’s no way to avoid the fumes when you puree onions, so make it by an open window. The marinade is also good with grilled chicken or fish, and you can omit the saffron, though with some loss of magic.

CHELO KEBAB

2 to 2 1/4 pounds boneless lamb

1/2 large onion, yielding 1/2 cup onion juice

4 to 5 threads saffron

Salt, pepper

Trim lamb of tendons and excess fat and cut into 5-inch long strips. Grate onion or puree in food processor and strain off onion juice in sieve. Crush saffron threads to powder in mortar and mix with onion juice.

Coat lamb strips with onion juice, cover with plastic wrap and marinate overnight in refrigerator or at least 3 hours at room temperature. Season strips to taste with salt and pepper. Grill until browned. Serve with boiled rice, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

309 calories; 222 mg sodium; 147 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 1 grams carbohydrates; 46 grams protein; 0.09 grams fiber; 35% calories from fat.

ALBANIAN LAMB AND ONION STEW

1/4 cup olive oil

2 to 2 1/2 pounds lamb stew or shoulder of lamb, cubed

1 1/2 pounds whole pearl onions or 4 large white onions, sliced

2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced

1 celery heart with leaves, chopped

2 small green peppers, chopped

3 tablespoons tomato paste

1 1/2 cups dry red wine or broth

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon crushed dried oregano, or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

Heat oil until hot in large saucepan. Add lamb and cook until browned on all sides. Remove meat and add onions, garlic, celery and green peppers. Saute until onions are lightly browned. Stir in tomato paste and cook, stirring with pan juices to blend flavors, about 1 minute. Stir in wine, salt, pepper and oregano.

Return meat to saucepan. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer over very low heat 2 to 2 1/2 hours or until meat and onions are very tender. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Beef may be substituted for lamb. Also, combination of onions, such as white and green onions, can be used in equal amounts.

Each serving contains about:

370 calories; 527 mg sodium; 98 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 32 grams protein; 0.86 grams fiber; 42% calories from fat.

“This recipe comes from my mother,” says food staffer Kathie Jenkins. “And when it came time to make them, she didn’t have to ask twice for help in the kitchen. We dipped, she fried and the results were thick, golden rings that we liberally sprinkled with salt. Sweet Bermudas or Spanish onions make the best rings.”

FRENCH FRIED ONIONS

1 large onion

2/3 cup milk

Flour

3/4 teaspoon baking powder

Salt

Oil for frying

Cut onion into 1/2- or 3/4-inch slices and separate into rings. Mix together milk, 1/2 cup flour, baking powder and salt in large bowl. Mound approximately 1/4 cup flour on plate. Heat at least 1-inch deep oil to 375 degrees in deep-fryer or heavy skillet.

Dip each onion ring in flour, then into batter. Cook in hot oil, 2 at time. Turn once and remove when golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Makes 3 servings.

Each serving contains about:

156 calories; 232 mg sodium; 4 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 30 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.30 grams fiber; 37% calories from fat.

Instead of relying on salt, Joe D. Cochran Jr., executive chef of Loew’s Santa Monica Beach Hotel, prefers to accent flavors with onions, shallots, garlic and tangy seasonings such as lemon and vinegar. Here he transforms a lemony pasta dish from Abruzzi by adding sweet onions cooked in olive oil. Serve the pasta as a first course or main dish accompanied by focac c ia and a dry white Italian wine.

FETTUCCINE WITH SWEET ONIONS, LEMONS AND BLACK PEPPER (Riva Restaurant, Loew’s Santa Monica Beach Hotel)

1 lemon

2 medium sweet onions, sliced julienne

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, about

Salt

Cracked pepper

12 ounces dried fettuccine

4 ounces imported Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

1/4 cup finely chopped chives

Remove zest from lemon and cut into fine strips. Blanch zest 3 times in boiling water. Set aside for garnish.

Squeeze juice from lemon. Reserve pulp. In non-stick saute pan, slowly cook onions in 1/4 cup olive oil over low to medium heat until translucent. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cook fettuccine in boiling water until al dente. Drain and toss in large bowl with onions, lemon juice, lemon pulp, Parmesan cheese and enough of remaining oil just to moisten. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place in serving dish. Sprinkle chives and lemon zest on top. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

704 calories; 598 mg sodium; 22 mg cholesterol; 37 grams fat; 70 grams carbohydrates; 27 grams protein; 0.74 grams fiber; 47% calories from fat.

Raimund Hofmeister, president of the Los Angeles International Culinary Institute, turns cheese soup into a showy dish by serving it in an onion cup. The soup is very rich, so a small portion is sufficient.

BRIE AND ONION SOUP (Los Angeles International Culinary Institute)

1/2 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon white peppercorns

1 whole clove

1 sprig fresh thyme

3 tablespoons butter

1/4 pound leeks, cut julienne

1/4 pound celery, cut julienne

1/2 teaspoon chopped shallot

1/8 teaspoon chopped garlic

4 1/2 tablespoons flour

2 cups rich chicken stock, heated

2 cups whipping cream, heated

1/2 pound Brie, rind removed, at room temperature

Salt

White pepper

Chopped roasted walnuts

Chopped chives

Chopped parsley

Onion Cups

Tie bay leaf, white peppercorns, clove and thyme sprig in small piece of cheesecloth and set aside.

Melt butter in large saucepan. Add leeks, celery, shallot and garlic and cook until tender but not browned. Stir in flour and cook 5 minutes over low heat. Add hot stock, hot cream and cheesecloth packet. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes. Whip in Brie until melted and thoroughly blended. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Remove herb packet.

Combine walnuts, chives and parsley. Spoon soup into Onion Cups. Garnish top with some of walnut mixture. Pass any remaining soup at table. Makes 10 servings.

Each serving contains about:

532 calories; 567 mg sodium; 164 mg cholesterol; 49 grams fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 0.87 grams fiber; 84% calories from fat.

Onion Cups

Large onions, preferably white

Allow 1 large onion per serving. Steam unpeeled onions 20 minutes. Cool and dry with clean towel. Remove peel. Cut off top. Make X-shaped incision in center of onion, then cut around X with knife. With serrated spoon, scoop out onion center, leaving 1/2 inch wall around edges. Bake onion cups 5 minutes at 350 degrees before filling.

These sweet onions are really sweet. They’re marinated in sugar water, then filled with cream cheese and clams.

COOL CURLS

2 medium sweet onions

1 cup sugar

6 cups ice water

1 (8-ounce) package light cream cheese

1 (1 1/2-ounce) can minced clams, drained

2 or 3 cloves garlic, pressed

1 tablespoon white wine Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons minced parsley

1 1/2 teaspoons crumbled Roquefort cheese or 1 medium jalapeno chile, seeded and minced, optional

Finely chopped pecans, optional

Cut each onion into 6 wedges. Combine sugar and water in glass container and stir until sugar is dissolved. Place onion wedges in sugar water. Marinate 2 days in refrigerator. Drain and pat dry. Separate onion layers.

Combine cream cheese, clams, garlic, Worcestershire, parsley and cheese. Place 1 teaspoon cream cheese filling in each onion curl. Top with pecans. Arrange on serving dish, cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Makes 10 servings.

Each serving contains about:

172 calories; 96 mg sodium; 27 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 23 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.16 grams fiber; 42% calories from fat.

A classic favorite, this creamy soup may be served either hot or cold (when it is called vichyssoise). For a little crunch, garnish each serving with golden-fried leek rings.

CREAMY LEEK AND POTATO SOUP

4 cups sliced leeks, white part and bit of tender green

4 cups diced peeled potatoes

5 to 6 cups chicken stock or water

Salt, pepper

1 cup sour cream, whipping cream or creme fraiche

Crisp-Fried Leeks, optional

Bring leeks, potatoes and chicken stock to boil in large saucepan. Season to taste with salt. Cover partially and simmer 20 to 30 minutes, or until vegetables are tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Puree soup in blender or food processor. Whisk sour cream into soup. Return to pan to simmer until hot. Adjust seasonings to taste. Garnish top with Crisp-Fried Leeks. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving, without garnish, contains about:

186 calories; 723 mg sodium; 16 mg cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.82 grams fiber; 30% calories from fat.

Crisp-Fried Leeks

1 cup thinly sliced leek rings (white part only)

Salt

Flour

Oil for deep-frying

Sprinkle rings lightly with salt. Dredge in flour. Heat oil to 350 degrees in deep-fryer or deep skillet. Fry leek rings just until golden brown. Do not overcook, they will turn bitter. Drain on paper towels. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

BAKED STUFFED ONIONS

4 large yellow onions

Salt, pepper

Sage leaves

1 pound ground lamb

1 cup snipped dried apricots

1 tablespoon minced sage

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs

2 eggs, beaten

Chicken broth

Place whole onions in large pot of boiling water. Simmer 10 minutes. Drain. Plunge in cold water. Cut top quarter off each onion from root end. Peel onions. Carefully remove center of onions leaving shell with 2 or 3 layers of onion. Season inside of shells with salt and pepper. Place 2 or 3 sage leaves in bottom of each onion and set aside.

Chop enough of onion centers to measure 1 cup. Use remaining onion as needed for future cooking. Combine onion, lamb, apricots, sage, garlic, bread crumbs, eggs, salt and pepper to taste. Stuff into onions. Place in baking dish. Pour enoguh chicken broth to cover bottom of baking dish. Cover and bake at 325 degrees about 30 minutes. Uncover and continue baking until browned on top. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

480 calories; 1315 mg sodium; 189 mg cholesterol; 30 grams fat; 30 grams carbohydrates; 25 grams protein; 1.60 grams fiber; 56% calories from fat.

The Val of Tears

Really like onions? Enough to down a frosty scoop of onion ice cream? The fifth-annual Imperial Sweet Onion Festival is coming up--May 2, at the California MidWinter Fairgrounds in Imperial, Calif. That’s in the Imperial Valley.

Onion-loving cooks can compete in several contests to determine, among other things, who fries up the the best onion rings and, of course, the maker of the best onion ice cream. Admission is free and fresh sweet onions will be available for sale from growers. For more information, call (619) 353-1900.