Little-Known Kohlrabi Gaining a Following

Most shoppers, when confronted with kohlrabi, remain somewhat puzzled at its appearance. Is it a green turnip? A winged, green beet from outer space? Not quite.

The misunderstood and underrated kohlrabi is actually a distant relative of cabbage, broccoli and kale. Long known to cooks in Eastern Europe and Asia, kohlrabi tastes a little like a sweet, crunchy turnip.

Growers of the leafy bulb are few and far between. One of the reasons, according to several supermarket produce managers in North County, is that consumers rarely call for it, mainly because of ignorance as to how to prepare and serve it.

One local grower, at least, is attempting to fill the void.

For Margie Oakes of Oakes Knoll Ranch in Fallbrook, kohlrabi seemed like a good winter crop when she sowed her first seeds four years ago. “It’s easy to grow as long as you space the seeds enough,” said the farmer. Planting the seeds too close together will prevent the plump green bulb from reaching their ideal 2- to 3-inch size.

Oakes finds plenty of knowledgeable customers who buy her kohlrabi at the Vista Farmer’s Market, the only place she sells it. “Those who have cooked with kohlrabi love it. Some people even eat the leaves,” she said.

The leafy tops can be prepared much like spinach or beet greens, although she prefers to use them raw, in salads or with dips.

The kohlrabi sold at the Community Market in Encinitas comes from the Bornt Family Farms in Holtville. Alan Bornt, a third-generation California farmer, only recently began to grow the vegetable, after several customers requested it. Bornt specializes in organically grown purple kohlrabi, “because it’s a little more special, with lush tops, good color and a sweet taste.”

Bornt has found that a good way to savor the fresh vegetable is to juice it, and blend it with carrot juice, to give it more sweetness.

Don Lockner, Cardiff Seaside Market’s produce manager, sometimes finds kohlrabi difficult to come by, although the store fairly regularly carries organically grown baby kohlrabi grown locally.

“It used to be imported from Germany,” he said of the kohlrabi, whose name, literally translated from the German, means “cabbage turnip.” He recommends eating kohlrabi raw or cooking it like you would a turnip. “It’s a year-round crop,” he adds, although baby kohlrabi depends a lot on growing conditions and on the weather.”

Baby kohlrabi is also on display among the dozens of other specialty vegetables at Daniel’s Market in the Del Mar Plaza. Produce manager Shaun Gilbreath, prefers baby kohlrabi to the larger bulbs, “so the leaves can stay attached.” One variety, the color of a red beet, sports red-veined leaves.

James Cosper, a chef in Daniel’s meat department and also a private caterer, advises preparing the leaves like spinach, or eating the bulb like carrot or celery sticks. “It tastes almost like celery. The bulbs are crunch, and quite firm,” he said. According to Cosper, kohlrabi can also be substituted any time celery is called for in stuffings, or in dressings for turkey or fowl. “It has a great taste, and the leaves and the bulbs really bring out the flavor in soups,” he says.

Seed expert Charles Ledgerwood of Reliable Seed in Carlsbad, mentions that the vegetable is popular with home gardeners during the colder months. “Home gardeners like it,” says the owner of the Carlsbad Boulevard landmark. “Especially the white variety, rather than the purple one.” Ledgerwood carries the White Vienna, which is grown from October to March and is well adapted to the North County.

Kohlrabi is a good source of vitamins A and C and potassium. Pick firm, whole bulbs, free of cracks. Avoid yellowing leaves. Separate leaves from stem, and refrigerate separately.

To cook, peel the bulb, removing any fibrous material. Use it as you would turnips, or grate it raw, in salads. Steam, roast, or stir fry. The whole vegetable can also be stuffed.

Margie Oakes, Oakes Knoll Ranch, P.O. Box 252, Fallbrook, CA 92028. 728-9158. 60 cents a bunch for large bulbs at Vista Farmer’s market.

Cardiff Seaside Market, 2087 San Elijo Ave., Cardiff by the Sea, 753-5445. Organically-grown baby kohlrabi, $1.19 a bunch depending on availability.

Daniel’s Market, 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar. 481-8191. Organically-grown baby kohlrabi, $1.29 a bunch.

Reliable Seeds, Charles B. Ledgerwood, 3862 Carlsbad Blvd., Carlsbad. 729-3282. Open daily except Sunday from 8 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. 25 cents of 1/16 oz. 1/8 oz., 35 cents (ample for home garden, says Ledgerwood.) Mail order accepted.

Community Market, 745 1st St., Encinitas. 753-4632. Kohlrabi $1.69 a bunch.