A Rabbit Tale

It may come as a tremendous relief to some to discover that the domesticated rabbit (Oryctolagus), the one available fresh in foam trays and plastic wrapping at supermarkets and butcher shops, is a whole genus apart from the Easter Bunny, which my reading of the relevant texts suggests is a cottontail rabbit (Sylvilagus). They both may be lagomorphs, but they can’t be crossed.

Americans suffer a certain squeamishness about eating rabbit, falling into the habit in meaningful numbers only when Great Depressions hit or wartime rationing reduces the availability of other meats. Such is not the case throughout Europe, where rabbit fits right into the peasant and working-class traditions. Rabbit represents a significant portion of the agricultural output of France, yet the average size of the French rabbitry is four does, at best a back-yard enterprise.

American rabbit breeders like to point to Europe where, they say, rabbit is a “gourmet” food, but this is less than accurate. Hare is a specialty food that fits this billing, a game meat of distinction. Rabbit is another story altogether, a way the poor can put meat into the pot once or twice a week.

The rest of us meat eaters should be so lucky, for rabbit is spa food. Ounce for ounce it is the highest in protein of meats commonly available in the market, and lowest in fats. The cholesterol level in rabbit meat is next to insignificant, with the only real comparisons to be found among the white fish. Rabbit meat is white meat, is easily digested and has so low a water content that little or no shrinkage occurs in the cooking process.

Rabbit can be sauted, fried, braised, baked, roasted, steamed and grilled. Attention must be paid, however, to cooking techniques and times, for rabbit meat is so low in fat it has the tendency to dry out and toughen. Braising is a good place to start.

Cutting up a rabbit takes some practice, but it is not daunting once you learn where to find the bones. For elegant dishes such as a warm salad using tender medallions cut from the loin, you will need to bone out the loin. Ask the butcher to show you how this is done.

I tend to leave the bone in the loin when I braise rabbit, cutting the loin into several chunks. But I bone out the haunches, leaving the shank in place. I usually toss the rib cage and the forelegs into a stock pot with any other bones. The belly flaps on a rabbit are akin to flank steak on a steer. If I am braising I cut these into strips or mince them with a sharp knife before adding the meat. Otherwise, I add the flaps to the stock pot.

For years, Mark Manley at Seattle’s Union Bay Cafe has tried to figure out what motivates people to order rabbit. Sometimes he can’t cook enough of it. Other times it simply sits on the menu. Easter, however, is an unusual time at the Union Bay Cafe. At Easter, Manley runs rabbit mole as a special. Customers return year after year to savor both the dish and the slightly twisted sense of humor that brought it to the table.

RABBIT MOLE

1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon paprika

Dash cayenne pepper

1 medium rabbit, cut into serving pieces

Kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup flour

Butter or oil

1 onion, chopped

1 stalk celery, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

4 or more cloves minced garlic

2 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

1/4 cup chicken stock

1 cup red or white wine

1/2 cup canned tomatoes

1/4 cup finely ground toasted almonds

1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder

1/2 cup roasted, diced poblano chiles

1/4 cup toasted whole almonds

Combine coriander, cumin, paprika and cayenne in small bowl. Season rabbit to taste with salt and pepper and 1 1/2 teaspoons spice combination. Dredge rabbit pieces in flour.

Heat 2 tablespoons butter in saute pan over medium heat. Add meat pieces and fry until golden brown, about 4 minutes on each side.

In heavy, lidded roasting pan, melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat. Add and saute onion, celery, carrot and garlic. Stir in vinegar. Add rabbit pieces, chicken stock, wine and tomatoes. Raise temperature to medium-high. Add almonds, remainder of spice combination and cocoa powder, turning and stirring meat until all is well incorporated. When soupy broth simmers, cover tightly and braise in 350-degree degree oven 1 hour or until rabbit is tender.

Remove from oven. Set rabbit aside and strain cooking liquid into saucepan. Add chiles to taste. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Adjust other spices to taste. Reduce to fluid consistency that is not too thick.

Serve rabbit on warm plates, pour sauce over and garnish with toasted almonds. Makes 4 servings.