They’re Back! : In the Antelope Valley, the Hills Are Alive With This Year’s Colorful Carpet of Wildflowers, Even if the Poppy Reserve Is a Disappointment

Ranger Bob McAdams was Windexing a glass door last week at the visitor center of the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve. Apparently, he had the time to spare.

The poppies, which by this time last year had exploded into a magic orange carpet across the 1,750 acres of the state park, have been stubborn this year. Only a few clumps of the brilliant flowers dotted the hillside. There were very few visitors.

Squinting south into the late-morning sun, McAdams gestured to an unfenced tract of private land across the road. There, almost as an affront to the barren slopes of the reserve, was a quarter-acre splash of telltale orange. And the cars, instead of crowding the visitor center’s gravel lot, were lined up on a dirt road across the way. Children were romping through flowers; adults were capturing the moments on film.

“I think it’s nicer when they bloom over here instead of across the street,” said McAdams. “I mean, that is why we’re here.”

Mother Nature, unfortunately, doesn’t pay attention to human exigencies. Her schedule is capricious. Rangers were hoping that, thanks to this year’s bountifulrain, the poppy crop would be as profuse as it was last year. But on Wednesday, it became clear that the reserve would not be the theater of color it was last spring.

“We’re not real sure why,” said Jim Geary, a district supervisor with the state Department of Parks and Recreation. “It may be that with all the rain a lot of the grasses came up and choked off the poppies. We haven’t had any sharp freezes as we had in the past. That’s when we’ve seen some good poppies.”

But for the next three weeks, there will be plenty of other satisfying wildflower areas in the Antelope Valley, many of which you can spot from the road. The hourlong drive is worth it; a patch of poppies in full bloom--even if it’s not where it’s supposed to be--can leave you gasping in childish delight.

I saw them in their glory for the first time last year, and felt as if I’d driven onto an enormous set for “The Wizard of Oz.” They were too wonderful to be real. Of course, there’s no Emerald City as a backdrop here (though there is a Quartz Hill), but the nearby mountains, washed in green by the rains, are a dramatic counterpoint to the flatness of the desert.

Poppies are the star springtime attraction here, and the large perennial variety that grows around the center is indeed spectacular. The smaller annual variety, which usually covers the rest of the reserve, is more delicate but just as beautiful. You can see this type sprouting through asphalt along the road as you approach the reserve.

The supporting players are lovely, too: purple lupine, green-and-yellow fiddleneck, thistle sage and tidytips as dainty as daisies. There are dozens of wildflowers and grasses, most of which you’ve probably never heard of. Small butterflies called “painted ladies” are sometimes out in force, too.

Just getting out to the desert is a nice reward on a sunny spring day. As you exit California 14 in Lancaster and head west on Avenue I, the culture of the country is immediately evident.

Roadside signs in front of scattered ranches advertise eggs and baby pigs for sale. There aren’t any traffic lights along that stretch of Avenue I, either, just stop signs.

Because the Poppy Reserve, about 13 miles west of California 14, was dominated by grasses and less dramatic flowers when I visited, I decided to wend west along California 138 toward Gorman and Interstate 5, where the flowers were more accommodating.

Along the way, there were spectacular patches of color, not just poppies but brilliant deep lilac cones of lupine snuggling against deep maroon brush. Other, smaller lavender blooms were draped across the desert like swatches of diaphanous chiffon. The scenery is hypnotically beautiful--far better to have someone else drive, if you ask me, so you can concentrate on staring at the landscape.

Off in the distance, on the low mountain ranges, were telltale patches of brilliant color, splattered on the ground as though dumped from heavenly paint buckets. I chased those splotches like a child chases a rainbow, but, like a rainbow, each patch just ahead was impossible to get to from the road.

Which is why the Poppy Reserve is so convenient. Seven miles of trails wind around the hills, perfect vantage points for blossom-watching. And the visitor center is a nice place to learn about the landscape and its occupants. Budding botanists will discover that the blossom of the poppy is “simple and unspecialized” and features--don’t blush--”exposed reproductive parts.” The flower has a history, too: The Spanish called it copa de oro (cup of gold), and Gold Rush miners pressed its blossoms in their letters home.

The reserve, dedicated in 1976, is one of the few consistent poppy-bearing sites in the state. Money to acquire the site from private owners was collected from state and federal sources, foundations and individuals, including schoolchildren from 9,000 California schools.

The award-winning passive solar visitor center opened in 1982 and is named for Jane Pinheiro, a self-taught artist and botanist who dedicated her life to preserving the character of the Antelope Valley. She died in 1978, and many of her extraordinarily detailed wildflower paintings hang in the center, a gray cement building nestled against a hill, with a great view of the mountains and surrounding desert.

The center also houses flower and wildlife displays and a brief video presentation on the changeable landscape on which it sits. A small selection of books is available. Maps are free, and volunteers are on hand to answer questions.

It’s hard to resist picking poppies, but don’t do it. Picking wildflowers is a misdemeanor in California, for which you can be fined up to $1,000 and receive six months in jail. Besides, they wilt so fast it’s not really worth it.

There are other, highly touted places for wildflower gazing, all within driving distance of the Poppy Reserve. Saddleback Buttes State Park, created to celebrate and keep the fiercely prehistoric-looking Joshua tree, is about 15 miles east of California 14, between Avenues O and J northeast of Palmdale. Next door to the park, on Avenue M, is the Antelope Valley Indian Museum, a converted home that blends natural rock formations and architecture. The best way to “do” wildflowers is to just hop in the car and head to the Antelope Valley, stopping wherever you find a particularly luscious roadside patch of poppies. If there aren’t any fences or no-trespassing signs, you can roam. But no matter where you are, watch for rattlesnakes. The rangers, I noticed, wear boots. Not a bad idea if you like to hike.

If you can make the trip on a weekday, you’ll have a more pleasant visit and an easier time parking, unless you love a crowd. Last weekend, rangers reported crowds of about 2,500 people on Saturday and 3,000 on Sunday at the Poppy Reserve.

Also, since the poppy is a drowsy flower, folding up its petals at night, full sunlight is essential.

After spending a morning chasing poppies, I must say it’s a lot less strenuous than chasing rainbows. You don’t feel as silly, and the payoff is better, too.

GUIDEBOOK

Into the Poppy Fields

Getting there: From Los Angeles to the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve: Take the 405, 101, 5 or 210 freeways north toward Bakersfield to California 14 and head east to Lancaster and Palmdale. Exit in Lancaster on Avenue I and go west, or left, about 13 miles. Avenue I becomes Lancaster Road about 110th Street West. Follow it to the reserve. If you want to make a loop, drive west from the reserve along Lancaster Road until it curves north into California 138 (West Avenue D). A few miles before California 138, a bit west of 210th Street West, is a tract called the Ripley property, which straddles Lancaster Road. It’s a particularly good place to stop. Turn left on California 138 and continue west to Gorman, where you can catch Interstate 5 south back to Los Angeles.

To Saddleback Buttes State Park: California 14 north to the Avenue K exit in Lancaster. Go east about 17 miles to 170th Street East. Right on 170th.

To the Antelope Valley Indian Museum : California 14 north to Avenue K exit. East 17 miles to 150th Street. Right on 150th and, two miles down, left on M Street. One mile farther, watch for the museum signs. Hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Admission: $2 for adults, $1 for children.

When to go: March to May are peak times. Rangers predict that current blooms will last another two or three weeks, but be sure to call ahead. It’s crowded on weekends so try to make the trip on a weekday. Parking at the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve costs $5 per car.

Picnicking: The reserve’s visitor center has picnic tables, restrooms and water, in addition to displays. Saddleback Buttes State Park and the Antelope Valley Indian Museum also have picnic tables.

For more information: Call the Poppy Reserve at (805) 724-1180 (sometimes you’ll get a recorded message) or the California Department of Parks and Recreation District Office at (805) 942-0062. The lines are frequently busy, so keep trying. Saddleback Buttes State Park: (805) 942-0662. Antelope Valley Indian Museum: (805) 946-3055.