Lemon Aids

Here’s how to go about getting the most out of lemons (and all citrus):

* Wash the lemon with soapy water to remove any external chemicals. Rinse and dry well.

* Remove just the zest with the fine side of a grater or a zester--a specially designed tool available in cookware shops--which is far easier to use than the grater. A sharp swivel-bladed vegetable peeler also works well, though a mini food processor or blender is required to mince the rind, best done with a small amount of the sugar or flour from the recipe.

* Don’t expect to get every bit of the zest--there is necessarily some waste.

* Avoid removing any part of the white rind, the pith, which tastes very bitter.

* To remove zest in advance of its use, wrap it in plastic wrap to keep moist since it becomes tough as it air-dries.

* One large lemon yields about one tablespoon grated zest.

* Juice the lemon within the next few days since it deteriorates much more quickly without the zest.

* To extract the most juice from a lemon, be sure it’s at room temperature (or place a chilled lemon in the microwave for 20 seconds). Roll a very firm lemon around on the counter with the flat of your hand to break open the little juice sacs.

* Store lemon juice in the refrigerator for up to three days, or in the freezer as long as one month. For convenience, freeze juice in plastic ice cube trays. Once solid, pop out the cubes and wrap airtight in a plastic food bag. Lemon juice cubes are easy-to-measure portions for cooking. Also consider using the cubes in ice tea and sparkling water.