THE WINE LIST

La Chaumiere has a generally well-thought-out wine program, but there are flaws. Too many wines are too young, older bottles are expensive and the staff appears less knowledgeable than it should be for a white-tablecloth restaurant of this caliber.

The list’s 21 sparkling wines are all overpriced. The California Chardonnay section is more interesting; 21 wines in a variety of styles, from the broad richness of 1990 Kistler Dutton Ranch, $42, to the delicacy of 1988 Trefethen, $35. Best value is the 1990 Cuvaison, $28, an exceptional wine.

Among Cabernet Sauvignons, good choices are 1987 Creston Winemaker’s Select, $30, and 1987 Jordan, $40. But again, few older bottlings are listed, and only one--1982 Mondavi Reserve, $69--would I call slightly mature.

The red Bordeaux list includes a number of wines from excellent 1985 vintage, but most are from small, little-known houses. The best of the ‘85s, Chateau Beychevelle, is $70.

For the real finds, look to sections marked “Other.” Under American whites, try 1990 Eyrie Pinot Gris, $25; under American reds, the bargain is 1989 Adelsheim Seven Springs Pinot Noir, $29; under imported reds, try 1983 Tignanello, $45.