The Old- World Tomato

Eggplant is as versatile as any food can be--it can be baked, broiled, fried, boiled or steamed. But be fussy about the eggplants you buy--they’re not as durable as you might think. Choose a firm, smooth-skinned fruit without any soft spots or blemishes; this usually guarantees an eggplant that lacks a bitter taste, has edible skin and holds up longer in the refrigerator.

Should an eggplant be withered and old, it will probably taste bitter no matter how it’s cooked. To draw out the bitterness, cut it up however you want and sprinkle it with salt (some cooks salt all eggplant to play it safe). Then place it in a colander, weight it down with some heavy objects and let stand about 30 minutes. Before cooking, blot the salted eggplant with a cloth towel or rinse it off with water, then blot it dry.

Always be sure to peel any eggplant that is not young and perfect; thick, leathery skin is not pleasant in the finished dish.

The cylindrical Japanese or Oriental eggplants, the Italian or baby eggplants and the white Thai eggplants, tend to be very tender (skin included) and sweet, rarely requiring preliminary salting. These varieties are often used interchangeably, substituting according to weight.

All of these recipes are do-aheads and especially appropriate for warmer weather since they are very light-tasting, using a minimum amount of fat for cooking.

CAROL’S SOUTHWESTERN CAVIAR

1 large (1 1/2 pounds) eggplant, unpeeled unless skin is leathery, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 medium onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 large green pepper, cut into 1/2-inch dice

2 (8-ounce) cans tomato sauce

3 large cloves garlic, pressed through garlic press

2 teaspoons sugar

4 teaspoons ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon to 1/4 cup water

1/4 cup minced cilantro

Combine eggplant, onion, green pepper, tomato sauce, garlic, sugar, cumin, cayenne pepper and salt in 12-inch non-stick skillet. Stir to combine. Cook, covered, over medium heat until eggplant is tender, about 35 minutes, stirring often to avoid sticking. Add water as necessary for desired consistency.

Cool. Chill overnight before serving, covered airtight. Can be made 1 week ahead. Before serving, add cilantro and adjust seasonings to taste. Serve chilled. Makes about 4 cups or 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

56 calories; 386 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 1.56 grams fiber.

Salted or not, eggplant does not require much oil for cooking. Here, a small amount of oil is heated until hot in a non-stick pan. Then the eggplant and vegetables are added to the pan and seared over high heat for 4 minutes, stirring often to avoid burning.

MOO SHU EGGPLANT-VEGETABLE MEDLEY

1 1/2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 medium eggplant, unpeeled unless skin is leathery, cut into 3/4-inch dice

1 medium red onion, cut into 3/4-inch dice

3 small zucchini, split lengthwise, sliced thin

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 (1x1/2-inch) piece ginger root, minced

1/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar

1 tablespoon hoisin sauce

2 tablespoons water

Crushed dried hot pepper

1 large sweet red pepper, cut into 1/2-inch dice

4 green onions, thinly sliced, for garnish

Cooked rice, for serving

Heat peanut and sesame oils in 12-inch non-stick pan over medium-high heat. Make sure oil coats bottom of pan before adding ingredients. Add eggplant, red onion, zucchini, salt, garlic and ginger. Cook, uncovered, over high heat until eggplant is tender but not mushy, about 3 to 4 minutes, stirring almost constantly to avoid burning. Vegetables should look seared.

Add rice vinegar, hoisin sauce, water and crushed hot pepper. Heat through. Add sweet pepper. Cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve hot over rice, garnished with sliced green onions. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

This eggplant dish is a cross between a vegetable and a salad. Consider it for buffet tables since it’s served chilled or at room temperature.

MEDITERRANEAN EGGPLANT WITH ROASTED PEPPERS AND FRESH BASIL

2 large eggs

1/3 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons light-tasting olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter or margarine

1 large firm eggplant, peeled, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices

Roasted Pepper Garnish

Froth eggs in shallow dish. Combine flour, cumin, cayenne pepper and salt on sheet of wax paper.

Heat 2 teaspoons olive oil and 1 teaspoon butter in 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Dip eggplant slices first in eggs, then in flour mixture so they are evenly coated. Tap off excess. When oil is hot, fry slices in 3 batches to avoid crowding, about 3 minutes per side. Set aside single layer on platter. Cook remaining slices, dividing oil and butter between 2 batches.

To serve, garnish slices with Roasted Pepper Garnish, dividing evenly. Serve chilled or at room temperature. Makes 4 side-dish servings.

Each serving contains about:

190 calories; 255 mg sodium; 114 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.50 gram fiber.

Roasted Pepper Garnish

2 large sweet peppers, preferably 1 yellow and 1 red, roasted

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon light-tasting olive oil

1/4 teaspoon sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup finely julienned fresh basil leaves

Cut roasted peppers in 1/4-inch wide strips. Toss with vinegar, oil, sugar, salt and pepper to taste. Can be made 3 days ahead and refrigerated. Toss with basil just before serving.

Note: To roast peppers quickly and easily, stand peppers on board and cut off sides, following natural flat contours. Arrange on foil-lined baking pan, skin-side up. Broil 6 inches from heat until skin is black. Wrap peppers up in foil lining until cool enough to handle, about 15 minutes. Slip off skins with your hands.