Do the Rice Thing

Even though Americans don’t eat as much rice as people in other countries--only one-tenth as much as in the Far East, for instance--we do use it in many ways. Rice shows up not only as a side dish, but as an ingredient in soups, casseroles, salads and desserts.

Rice is free of cholesterol, low in sodium, non-allergenic, readily digestible and reasonably priced. To assure you get the most from this grain, it’s necessary to understand some basic information and follow a few cooking guidelines.

All rice can be broken down into three types:

* Long-Grain--Rice that is long and slender in shape, as much as four to five times greater in length than width. When cooked, the grains tend to remain separate and are light and fluffy.

* Medium-Grain--Rice that is plump in shape, but not round. When cooked, these grains are more moist and tender than long rice.

* Short-Grain--Rice that is rounder in shape. Short-grain rice tends to cling together when cooked.

When any type of rice is harvested, it has a non-edible hull or husk that surrounds the kernel. Depending on how the grain is milled, the final form can be parboiled (sometimes called converted), brown or white rice.

To produce parboiled rice, the rough grain is subjected to steam pressure. Then the rice, still containing the inedible husk, is dried before being milled. This gelatinizes the starch and ensures a separateness of the grains. Parboiled rice takes a little longer to cook than regular white rice.

After “sheller” machines are used to remove the hull, the result is brown rice, with bran layers still surrounding the kernel. Pale-brown in color, it has a flavor frequently described as nutty and a texture that is slightly chewy or crunchy.

Brown rice is higher in fiber and oil content. It takes longer to cook and requires more water. As the rice expands during cooking, the outside bran coating explodes and the bran adheres to the rice grain.

When brown rice is “milled,” machines rub the grains together under pressure and the bran layers are removed by abrasion. The result is white or polished rice.

Much of today’s white rice is enriched, meaning certain vitamins and minerals--including iron, niacin, thiamine and in some cases Vitamin D, riboflavin and calcium--are added to replace those lost during milling.

There are thousands of varieties of rice grown around the world. Those most often found in American markets include:

Basmati --A rice variety that originated in the foothills of the Himalayas. It has the aroma of buttered peanuts, a nutty flavor and fluffy texture.

Texmati --A hybrid of long-grain and basmati that is grown primarily in Texas. Its rich flavor and aroma are similar to basmati .

Wehani --A rust-colored variety developed in California. The flavor is reminiscent of roasted chestnuts.

Sweet Rice --An Asian variety of short-grain rice. It is also known as sticky or glutinous rice, although it actually isn’t sweet and doesn’t contain gluten. It has a high starch level and a very low level of amylose, which keeps other rice grains separate.

Arborio --Grown in Italy, it has short, fat grains. Most commonly used for making risotto, but it may also be boiled.

Wild Rice --Actually not a rice, but the seed of an aquatic grass. Originally it was gathered by American Indians, but now it is also being commercially cultivated.

Storage:

White rice will keep almost indefinitely on the pantry shelf if stored in a tightly closed container that keeps out dust, moisture and other contaminants. Brown rice, because of the oil in the bran layer, has a limited shelf life--it should be used within two to three months.

Cooking:

Asians wash rice before cooking, stirring it with their fingers until the water runs clear. Washing enriched rice is not recommended, however, because it removes the dusting of thiamine, niacin and iron added after milling.

A heavy-bottomed saucepan with a tight-fitting lid is recommended for cooking rice.

Generally speaking, the larger the quantity of rice being cooked, the less water, proportionately, is required. Older rice requires more water, long-grain rice more than short-grain rice.

The Chinese rule for cooking rice is to let the water cover the grains by a depth of one knuckle joint (Step 1). Since hand sizes vary, it may be better to use the figure of slightly more than one inch.

There are many variations, but one technique for preparing what the Chinese refer to as “steamed” rice is to bring the water and rice to a boil over medium heat, boil one minute, then reduce the heat to low, cover the pan and simmer the rice 18 minutes.

Rice is cooked when the liquid has been absorbed and there are steam holes (Step 2). After cooking, allow the rice to stand, covered, seven to 10 minutes. Uncover and fluff with a fork before serving (Step 3).

The American method for cooking long-grain rice is to place two cups of water in a saucepan, bring to a boil, then slowly stir in one cup of rice. When the water returns to a boil, cover the pan and simmer about 15 minutes, until the rice is tender. Let stand, covered, five minutes before serving.

As already noted, when there are no directions on the package, cook parboiled rice slightly longer, increase water and cooking time for brown rice and use less water when cooking medium-grain rice.

Test rice for doneness by squeezing a grain between your fingers. It is cooked when you don’t feel a hard core. When the grains are splayed out at the ends, the rice is overcooked.

If the rice is done but the liquid has not been absorbed, uncover the pan and place over low heat for a few minutes until the liquid evaporates. You can also drain the rice, return it to the pan and toss with a fork over low heat.

When the water has boiled off and the rice is not yet tender, sprinkle a small amount of water over the rice and continue cooking.

Rice may be cooked ahead or leftover rice may be stored in the refrigerator up to two days. To reheat:

* Saute lightly in butter or margarine, tossing and fluffing with a fork as it warms.

* Place the rice in the top of a double boiler. Sprinkle with a few drops of water, then fluff the rice with a fork as it heats over simmering water.

* To reheat rice cooked without any fat: Wrap in a damp kitchen towel, place in a colander and lower into a pan with a small amount of simmering water in the bottom. (The water should not touch the colander.) Cover the pan and steam the rice several minutes, until heated through.