The Vegetable That Fits Like an Old Shoe

Although it gave Vice President Dan Quayle some uncomfortable moments last week, for many the potato epitomizes the essence of comfort food.

It appears daily on plates the world over--sliced, diced, mashed, steamed, fried, baked and who knows what else.

Although most of us are familiar with the soothing qualities of a russet or a White Rose potato, an avalanche of colorful additions has recently appeared on the market.

One of them is the unusual purple potato, favored by experimentally minded chefs. Another newcomer is the Yukon Gold, which boasts a saffron-hued flesh as smooth as pudding. The same properties apply to the Yellow Finnish, which Harry Najjar, manager of the Cream of the Crop market in Oceanside, describes as “tasting very creamy, almost like they have butter on them.”

Escondido grower Ben Hillebrecht specializes in red and white new potatoes, ranging in size from that of a marble to that of a tennis ball.

“Potatoes are easy to grow,” says this fifth-generation farmer who cultivates several acres of the vegetable near the family home. This year will not be a banner harvest, but Hillebrecht expects to have plenty of potatoes on hand at his two farm stands in Escondido through the month of July.

Marilyn Smith of Finicky Farms in Temecula said the thin-skinned Kennebecs and pink Red Pontiacs she grows are popular with the farmers market customers she caters too. The purple potatoes proved less appealing.

Her first potato planting was a dismal failure: out of 1,500 plants, only 82 came up. These days, Smith plants in increments so she has a steady supply, and sets a portion of the aside for next year’s crop. With a hefty push, she slips her shovel under a leafy bush. A clump of fresh, moist earth, filled with tubers the size of a pigeon’s egg meets the sunlight. “No. Too small for market,” she declares, moving on toward the next row. The next shovelful contains a handful of large, picture-perfect, rosy tubers. “See why I love potatoes? They’re so much fun.”

Smith said she doesn’t mind the labor-intensive process of hand planting, hand harvesting, or sharing a small portion of her crop with beneficial insects.

Red Pontiacs, which can reach the size of a medium grapefruit, are her favorites. “The first time we took them to market, people ran to our stand, and we sold out in 29 minutes,” Smith said.

For Cameron Minor, his father Wayne, uncle Larry and the handful of relatives who own Agri-Empire in Hemet, potatoes are big business. “To my knowledge, we’re the largest, single-family-owned potato farming operation in the United States,” said Minor, a salesman for the company.

Minor credits his grandfather with starting the operation more than four decades ago. Armed with a $600 loan, the elder Minor founded the San Jacinto Packing Co. First came sweet potatoes, then Agri-Empire’s claim to fame, year-round production of California Long Whites and Red Lasodas. “We have an ideal climate for growing both potatoes year-round. No one else can grow these year-round, and that’s what keeps us on top of the market,” said Minor The 7,000-acre operation is no small potatoes. Neither is a shed which runs year-round, and employs 100 people.

To ensure year-round production, Agri-Empire’s fields span the area around Hemet and San Jacinto, with a few plantings in Bakersfield and the warmer Coachella Valley. “We even have a 10-acre patch across from the local movie theater,” said Minor. Besides supplying the national market, Agri-Empire’s potatoes also are shipped to Canada and Mexico. “We pride ourselves on having the best quality potatoes,” said Minor, who began learning the family business at age 12. “For that, we have to harvest every day. We dig them up in the morning and ship them the same day.”

Local shoppers can buy Agri-Empire potatoes at many of county’s major supermarkets. The company’s potatoes are sometimes sold in bins, as California Whites or red potatoes. Others sport the White Jim’s Dandy or Red Rose label.

The long whites have an elongated shape, and a thin, white skin. They are a good for boiling, baking, or frying, according to Minor. A large portion of Agri-Empire’s crop goes to supply processors who favor the white for processed potato salad. The rounder-shaped, Red Lasodas, another Agri-Empire specialty, are particularly good for baking and boiling. “The smaller ones are often used in nice dishes in restaurants,” said Minor.

In her book, A Passion for Potatoes (Harper Prennial, 1992) cookbook author Lydie Marshall recommends storing potatoes in a well-ventilated area, at room temperature, and eating them within 10 days of purchase. Cut out sprouts before cooking the potato, she says, since the sprouts are toxic and contain alkaloids.

Don’t buy potatoes with a greenish tinge, which means they have been badly stored and exposed to light. Potatoes contain most major nutrient necessary for a healthful, daily diet. They are rich in potassium, among other minerals.

Cream of the Crop, 2009 South Hill St., Oceanside. 433-2757. Certified organically grown Russets, Reds, and Yellow Finnish potatoes.

The Farmstand West, 2115 Miller St., Escondido (Highway 15 at Felicita exit) 758-9014. and The Farmstand, corner of Summit and San Pasqual Valley Road, Escondido. 432-8912. Both open noon to 6 p.m. daily.

Finicky Farms, 37400 Mesa Road, Temecula, CA 92592. (714) 676-7036. Also sells at Old Town Temecula Farmer’s market, across the street from the post office, Thursdays 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Agri-Empire, P.O. Box 490, San Jacinto, CA 92583. (714) 654-7311. Wholesale to the trade only.