Cobs and Cobs of It : The drought and higher water rates were making the crop too expensive. But heavy rains gave fields a healthy soaking.

Shoppers fingering through heaps of fresh corn, yanking on fibrous husks hoping to unveil perfect rows of kernels is a common practice at produce markets during summertime.

The perennial picnic and mealtime favorite is being bought up by the bagful as the local harvest hits the marketplace. Abundant supplies are available at area roadside stands and farmers’ markets and the price is right--generally about four ears for a buck.

Ventura County’s sweet corn harvest wasn’t always looking this rosy. Until recently, production was faltering. According to Tony Bustillos of Seaboard Produce in Oxnard, drought conditions and rising water rates were making corn production an expensive undertaking. But heavy rains earlier in the year provided a healthy soaking, he said, and growers are now willing to devote more acreage to corn production.

The much needed rains and newly developed corn varieties have created a burgeoning local market. It used to be that most farmers sowed their fields with the bright yellow varieties of corn. Bustillos, a sales representative, said new and improved strains are becoming a big hit with consumers. “Growers are now leaving the old standards and switching to the new super sweets,” he said recently.

Besides enhanced flavor, these new strains have undergone a color change. They are commonly sold under the moniker “white” or “silver” corn and one variety--the Calico or bicolor--mixes the two. The cob is speckled with kernels of white and yellow hues.

These transformations, said Bustillos, have come about over the last several years as seed companies continue to alter the genetics of sweet corn.

“They have genetically changed it so the sugar doesn’t convert to starch,” he said. “The shelf life is tremendous.”

The sweeter the better as far as consumers are concerned.

“The people now know that these types are the ones to buy,” Bustillos said. “We’ve seen over the last six years the consumption level of white versus yellow go off the charts.”

Marilyn Nelson of Ventura was at a roadside stand in Santa Paula recently looking over an offering of white corn. While selecting her cobs, she offered a couple tips to choosing fresh corn.

“I always like to buy my corn directly from the farmer. You can get this stuff just a few hours after they bring it in from the field,” she said. “I check where the stalk has been cut. It should be somewhat moist and not dried out, plus it shouldn’t be (discolored). The husk leaves should be fresh and never dried.

“Make sure you pull the husk back and check to see if the kernels are fully developed on the cob. You don’t want to get gypped.”

Instead of boiling a kettle of water to prepare corn, Nelson simplifies matters by using her microwave oven. “It’s much quicker,” she said. “And you won’t be boiling out all the nutrients.”

Nelson soaks the ears--husks intact--under running water briefly, shaking off any excess moisture. “I peel off a couple layers of the husk,” she said. She then places a couple of paper towels on the oven floor; on top of that goes the corn. “I cook four at a time for about 15 minutes or so. The bigger ones take a little longer and I turn them about halfway through.”

The remaining husk and silk is easily removed, she said, and the corn is cooked to perfection--usually. “Puncture one of the kernels and if it seems a bit raw, just ‘wave’em for another minute.”

If you’ve fired up the barbecue, go ahead and place your corn cobs on the grill too.

Here’s a suggestion from “Fresh Facts,” a weekly newsletter published by the industry trade group Fresh Produce Council: Remove husks and silk and wrap each cob in aluminum foil along with a dollop of butter or margarine and an ice cube--that’s for added moisture. Once plopped on the grill, the cobs should be tender in about 20 to 30 minutes.

Locally, the corn harvest should last through October.

SERVING SUGGESTION / CORN SAUCES

When corn on the cob is served up--still piping hot from cooking--more often than not it will soon be smothered with melting butter to complement its own sweet flavor. Next time why not try a different spin to plain butter. Try combining fresh herbs such as thyme and rosemary or even chili powder. Here’s a couple of suggestions to spice up your corn:

Herb Butter Sauce

1/2 cup cold unsalted butter or margarine

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh marjoram

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or rosemary

Dash freshly ground black pepper

Place butter in microwave-safe bowl and cover to prevent spattering. Microwave on high 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 minutes or until melted.

Stir in lemon juice, marjoram, thyme and pepper. Cover and microwave on low 2 to 3 minutes. Pour into heated sauce boat and serve at once. Makes 1/2 cup.

Chili Butter Sauce

1/2 cup cold unsalted butter or margarine

1 teaspoon chili powder

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Dash cayenne pepper

Combine butter and chili powder in one-pint microwave-safe bowl. Cover and microwave on high 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 minutes or until melted.

Stir in lemon juice and cayenne. Cover and microwave on low 2 to 3 minutes. Pour into heated sauce boat and serve at once. Makes 1/2 cup.