THE WINE LIST

When you see a list with Bordeaux from great vintages such as 1934, 1945, 1949 and 1961, not to mention a complete vertical collection of Opus One, it’s hard not to feel blessed. Especially when you find that the wines are served in truly elegant stemware.

All you need is a little Beef Wellington. And that’s the problem. The menu here is decidedly seafood oriented, and these grand red wines just don’t go with the dishes on the menu.

What does go with the food are the amazingly fine German white wines, all of which are reasonably priced. One of the best values on the list is 1990 Gunderloch Estate Riesling from Fritz Hasselbach (the producer’s name isn’t on the wine list) at $22. A softer wine for creamier dishes is 1989 Pfeffingen Riesling Kabinett from Fuhrmann--Eymael, $23. And one of the most intriguing wines you’ll find is 1990 Salwey Vin Gris, $32, a superb wine made from the Pinot Gris grape.

If you don’t want to try a German wine, there are good values for the savvy seafood - and-wine lover: 1990 Robert Pepi Sauvignon Blanc, $20; 1990 Chateauneuf-du-pape, Vieux Lazaret, a white Rhone, $27, and 1989 Hess Chardonnay, $25.

There are a few irritants as well. It would be nice if the menu gave you some advice about which dishes the various German wines went with. The 12 sparkling wines are overpriced. And the white Burgundies are expensive, although this is more the fault of the wine than the restaurant.

While there’s not really much here that goes with the great Bordeaux, Opus offers a range of French Burgundies for those who would like to pair lighter red wines with seafood. In California Pinot Noir, the best value is 1989 Sanford, $25.