THE WINE LIST

Wine lists don’t stand still. They automatically evolve as new vintages come along and old vintages become depleted (or, one hopes, when the house recognizes that they’re over the hill). They also evolve unpredictably because they reflect the public’s changing tastes.

Prices can spur evolution, too. The list at Tulipe has actually improved in the last two years because French wine prices have remained high.

The result is that Tulipe’s list has become more adventurous. It used to star a wide range of excellent Burgundies from importer Martine Saunier, some of which it still offers. But with French wines uneconomically priced, the owners decided to cut back on Burgundy and add more reasonably priced California wines, giving the consumer a little more to choose from.

Among the new items on this list are 1990 Qupe Chardonnay, $25; 1989 Pranus Zinfandel, $22; 1989 Havens Reserve Merlot, $33, and 1988 Rubissow-Sargent Cabernet Sauvignon, $27. If the names are unfamiliar, it’s only because they are from new properties that Tulipe discovered and now offers at fair prices.

The list has wines in a wide range of prices and styles (but no Italian wines). Incidentally, one of the better buys is actually a French wine--1983 Chateau Kirwan at $33.