SMORGASBORD / THE FOOD COLUMN : Hooked : Service excels at the Red Lobster, and Jake’s does barbecue from an exotic spot close to home.

As I cruised the Red Lobster parking lot searching for a place to land, I hoped finding a table wouldn’t be as challenging. Rumor had it that there could be as much as an hour’s wait to be seated. After my fourth pass through the maze of cars, determined to check out the new seafood joint, I gave up on the restaurant’s parking and opted for a hike from a furniture store across the street.

The overflow benches outside the front door were all empty. A good sign.

Inside, I was met in the lobby by a tank of clawed crustaceans patiently waiting to be steamed and dipped in melted butter. Before I could decide which one would be dinner, the hostess had a table ready.

Four large dining rooms allow Red Lobster to accommodate more than 250 people at any time. Being that large might cause the food and service to suffer, I guessed.

Not according to customer Mark Harris, a telephone representative from Camarillo, who has visited the restaurant at least once a week since it opened in April. “The food is great, but I consider the service outstanding. When my wife and I have our 8-month-old baby with us, the wait staff go out of their way to make our dinner enjoyable, extra napkins, that sort of thing. That is important to me.”

Which goes a long way toward explaining why the Red Lobster chain has about 445 restaurants in 38 states.

For those who are pressed for time, the restaurant offers “call-ahead seating” (call before you leave the office and you will be seated when you get there) and a carryout menu.

For last-minute entertaining, party platters are available. Chilled shrimp, crab claws, their creation or yours, can usually be picked up in an hour or less.

Another chain, Jake’s Restaurant & Lounge, has recently opened an outlet in Ventura.

Robert (Jake) Jacobson is renowned for spreading what he calls Santa Maria-style barbecue restaurants throughout Southeast Asia and Hawaii.

A Santa Maria-style barbecue includes meat, especially tri-tip, that has been broiled over an oak fire, then served with pinquito beans and salsa. The pit for the Oxnard restaurant was actually brought in from Santa Maria.

Jake’s can accommodate groups of 20 to 200 and offers catering, too.

Steak and ribs aren’t the only things cooking at Jake’s. The lounge has nightly entertainment that ranges from Western nights (Sunday and Monday) to reggae (Wednesday).

* WHERE AND WHEN

* Red Lobster, 1740 Ventura Blvd., Oxnard; 981-9595. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 Friday and Saturday. Parking lot. Full bar. All major credit cards accepted. Lunch for two, food only: $8 to $15. Dinner for two, food only: $20 to $80.

* Jake’s, 2350 Vineyard Ave., Oxnard; 983-6995. Hours: restaurant, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily; lounge, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily. Parking lot. Full bar. All major credit cards accepted. Lunch for two, food only: $10 to $16. Dinner for two, food only: $16 to $70.