Sit Down to Schnitzel and Strudel at Alex’s Family Table

It takes only a fraction of a second upon entering Alex’s German-American Restaurant for the realization that this is a family-run establishment to hit you like a pan of homemade apple strudel.

A ton of bric-a-brac adorns the walls, but nothing is quite as prominent as the row of family pictures featuring Frank and Rose Russick and their 11 children and 28 grandkids.

Frank and Rose know all about what it takes to raise a family and maintain a home. Want proof? Come down to the restaurant, which features a menu laden with authentic German dishes, such as sauerbraten ($9.45), fresh beef marinated in herbs and spices and a classic Wiener schnitzel ($11.95), a breaded, pan-fried veal cutlet.

The interior will stir memories of your grandmother’s house. Besides the abundance of pictures, knickknacks are scattered throughout the place. One wall is covered with books (for sale, after Frank and Rose read them). In a corner sits an old piano.

Whenever Frank gets a moment, and a request, he’ll put down his skillets and belt out a tune. You are encouraged to sing along. If you don’t know the words, that’s no excuse. Frank has a binder with lyric sheets to about 380 songs.

The restaurant itself is more than 40 years old (the original owner’s name was Alex, hence the name) and sits alone on the corner of El Camino Real and San Luis Rey in San Clemente. Frank and Rose, who have owned the establishment for 20 years, live in the back of the place.

They are the sole proprietors and the sole cook and waitress. When the dozen tables in the place fill up, they call a couple of friends to come and lend a hand.

The food is good, solid German fare. The bratwurst ($6.25 including soup, German potatoes and red cabbage or sauerkraut) is plump and juicy. The sauerkraut is hot and tart.

A nod goes to the Kassler Rippchen ($10.45), a meal of smoked pork chops marinated in wine and seasonings, served in its own juices.

There is a variety of old-fashioned American dishes on the menu, such as the ground beef steak, seafood combo and ham steak ($5.95 to $7.45).

A variety of domestic and imported beer and wine is served.

And for dessert, that flaky apple strudel ($1.75). Go ahead, throw a scoop of vanilla ice cream (95 cents) on top. You’re among family.

Alex’s German-American Restaurant, 2801 S. El Camino Real, San Clemente. (714) 492-8986. Open Thursday and Friday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Monday through Wednesday.