San Diego Spotlight : Relocated Nicolosi’s Brings Family Atmosphere Along

What’s the distance between El Cajon Boulevard and Adobe Falls Road? About one-and-a-half years and a lot of nostalgia, give or take a mile.

Street signs from the intersection of 40th Street and El Cajon Boulevard hang at the entrance to the main dining room of the new Nicolosi’s, which has taken up residence in the site of the former Kaiserhof at the eastern end of Mission Valley.

The old Nicolosi’s was quite the landmark on El Cajon Boulevard and probably still would occupy its former location if Interstate 15 were not slated to run through the block. The restaurant has done its best to bring the flavor of the old neighborhood along, especially as represented by a mural of the building in which Nicolosi’s first began serving pastas and superior pizza back in 1952. The old place always was fun to visit, while the new place, inevitably, is new --but the scene is lively and noisy and probably will generate memories for the new generations of guests that will dine here.

The very casual, family mood that always prevailed on The Boulevard has been transplanted to the Mission Valley location (the menu advises pointedly that well-behaved children are welcome), and if the seating and table settings seem designed for action, the place is comfortable enough. It may as well be noted, however, that the hosts on both recent visits were more like drill sergeants than greeters; a warmer welcome and more genial approach would seem as appropriate here as anywhere.

The hosts do have their work cut out for them, since there usually is a crowd waiting for tables at night. Most of them seem to be waiting for pizza, because one of these unusually good pies seems to turn up on nearly every table, either as the main event or as prelude to one of the simple pastas or entrees.

The pizza toppings, by and large, are not unusual, although the specials section does stretch to a garlic-and-clam version and to a Mexican-themed pie decorated with jalapenos, tomatoes, onions and bell peppers. What sets these pies apart is a near perfection of flavor, especially a fine balance of seasoning in the tomato sauce that gives a spicy note and really provokes interest. The server offers the option between thick or thin crust, and while this is purely a matter of personal preference, the thick crust is by no means doughy or chewy, but just sufficient to let the flavor shine through.

Nicolosi’s predates by several decades the arrival in San Diego of contemporary and more sophisticated Italian cuisine, and you can search the premises all day without turning up the slightest evidence of porcini mushrooms or truffled risotto. But there is least one unique house creation, the impanata , or stuffed bread dough that somewhat resembles a folded pizza and is lavish in its fillings. One version includes cheeses, an assortment of Italian meats, and a vegetable or two (broccoli recently starred); the second choice omits the meats and piles on the veggies. Based on the meat-stuffed impanata , this is an excellent and unusual dish. The restaurant also prepares Italian sausage on the premises, and the difference in quality is immediately apparent; this can be ordered on pizza, in a sandwich or as a side dish with pasta.

Meals include a small relish plate of sliced pepperoni, wedges of cheese and pickled peppers. These items return in greater bulk on the antipasto salad (the small size feeds two quite well), along with simple greens and several kinds of Italian cold cuts, all portioned with notable generosity. Main items can be ordered a la carte or inclusive of soup or salad; the soups tend to be thick and none too delicate, particularly a clam chowder in which a spoon stood up without wavering a millimeter.

Nicolosi’s is one of those old-style Italian houses that built its reputation on dishes in red sauce, and few of the entrees omit this sauce. The kitchen flavors it strongly and pours it over most items with abandon; while the sauce is not delicate, it does bring an unmistakable presence to the meal.

Spaghetti in tomato sauce heads the menu, although this particular pasta also can be ordered with garlic and oil or with mushroom sauce. The other choices are mostly familiar, and run to ravioli (with meat or cheese fillings, or both on request); rigatoni; manicotti and lasagna. On the parmigiana side, the list offers eggplant, chicken or veal dishes, all arranged in ceramic boats, buried beneath cheese and sauce and baked until bubbling. The menu switches away from tomatoes long enough to offer fettuccine Alfredo and a rather pleasant, spinach-stuffed lasagna bathed in a creamy white sauce.

Desserts include catered cheesecake, which seems rather rich after one of these filling meals, but also offers light cannoli filled with carefully flavored ricotta, and home-made biscotti , or firm, dry cookies. These cookies cry out for coffee, but it could also be said that coffee cries out for biscotti ; they’re quite nice.

The restaurant typically bustles and the servers seem in a constant rush. The family mood carries over a little too much into the service, however, and while it is friendly, you start to feel like you’re dining at home. Empty plates are cleared haphazardly, and requests for water or clean silver can take some time to be met.

NICOLOSI’S 5351 Adobe Falls Rd., San Diego 287-5757 Lunch and dinner daily Pastas and entrees $3.50 to $11.75. Dinner for two, including a glass of wine each, tax and tip, about $15 to $35. Credit cards accepted