Wings of the West is a cosmopolitan...

Wings of the West is a cosmopolitan cafe with a strong sense of beach. Order from the menu in French, Italian, Spanish or “surfer”--this is one place where someone will understand.

Sitting at the counter on a given day are tourists attracted by the wide variety of cappuccino offerings, diners sampling the pasta dishes made fresh in the back and beach-goers still strapped to their in-line skates cooling off with a snow cone or frozen yogurt to go.

The cafe does an aggressive delivery business, but getting the food at home means missing the posters on the wall of the pristine waters of Tahiti, the friendly chatter of the Wings of the West staff, and the aroma of garlic, olive oil and fresh-baked goods.

A tiny outdoor seating section features live entertainment--bodybuilders strutting with muscles flexed, young people decked out in cutting-edge beach fashion and a parade of the kind of zany, beatnik characters that add to the character of Hermosa Beach.

The atmosphere is breezy, but the menu has a serious edge. Combining touches from Italy, the Caribbean, Mexico and France, the specials (which run under $10) are adventurous creations--such as chicken and duck over pasta or spicy sea bass tacos--that one would not expect to find in such a cramped beachfront haunt.

And don’t forget the delicacy that gave this Hermosa Beach spot its name: crisp, meaty chicken wings. Order them Buffalo style, ranging in spiciness from regular to nuclear. “Hot! Hot! Hot!” is what the employees’ T-shirts say. The wings are served in baskets or buckets with a batch of celery sticks and a vat of blue cheese dressing. They remind East Coast connoisseurs of the real thing.

Wings of the West Cafe, 1112 Hermosa Ave., Hermosa Beach. Open Monday, 5 to 10 p.m. ; Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. ; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. ; and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (310) 379-4644. Delivery to most residences in Hermosa Beach, Redondo Beach and Manhattan Beach. Cash or credit cards.