Jeweled Globes : The ancient fruit ripens at summer’s end, presenting a messy challenge to snackers.

With each autumn comes the ripening of the jewel-like pomegranate. For many people, tearing back the fruit’s leathery skin--exposing ruby-hued clusters of tightly compacted juicy morsels--remains a favorite seasonal pastime.

Until recent years, though, one of the most common places to see the firm, round fruit was on a neighbor’s tree. But that’s changing. According to the Fresh Produce Council, increased commercial production in the San Joaquin Valley is helping to make the fruit a more common sight at grocery stores.

While it is not a commercial bonanza in Ventura County by any means, a few local growers do have a fresh harvest of quality fruit for local fanciers.

The proprietors of Timber Canyon Ranch in Santa Paula have been supplying pomegranates to a loyal clientele for more than 25 years.

Owners Mike and Mary Shore are offering this year’s bounty at three area farmers’ markets.

“We’ve had pretty good luck this year,” Mary Shore said recently. “Two years ago the ash whitefly attacked our trees, and that really set them back.”

She said fruit quality is way up, although production from their 60 trees is still down from what it was before the whitefly attack.

You’ll find the Shores’ pomegranates at both Ventura markets (Wednesdays and Saturdays) and Thursdays in Thousand Oaks.

“Although they’re popular with a lot of people, some still have never seen them,” she said. “Some are surprised by the appearance.”

While perhaps a mystery to some, pomegranates are actually one of the oldest fruits known to man.

For centuries, pomegranate juice has been used in Middle Eastern cuisine to cook a variety of meats. Shore said that with the juice of about six pomegranates, you have all the makings to simmer a pot roast for a fruity, tart embellishment.

“The juice also makes a wonderful jelly,” she said. “As far as I know, you can’t buy pomegranate jelly. So it’s kind of special to make it yourself.”

You’ll need about 15 pomegranates to make about 1 1/2 quarts of juice, she said.

The juice can be obtained from the seeds by simply squeezing them with a juice press, Shore said. “Press half or quarter pieces at a time.”

Snacking on pomegranate seeds can prove troublesome, if not messy. As fanciers know all too well, the whitish membrane between the seeds is bitter and should be discarded. To ease your attempt at removing the plump seeds, try this simple suggestion:

Cut off the crown end of the pomegranate and lightly score the rind lengthwise in several places.

Next, dunk the fruit in a bowl of cool water, break the sections apart with your fingers, separating the seeds from the membranes as you work. As they are separated, the seeds will sink to the bottom of the bowl, while the rind and membrane float to the top. Skim off the top, reach for a strainer and drain.

If necessary, spread the seeds on a paper towel and gently pat dry. (We tried it and it works.)

The Shores’ large pomegranates are going four for a buck; medium-sized or split, eight for a buck. A recent check at a couple supermarkets had the fruit going for about 89 cents a pound.

When purchasing, look for a bright red, smooth surface. Avoid a dried-looking skin, however, because the seeds may be just as dry.

Shore said she expects to have pomegranates through mid-November.

*

Ventura’s Leeward Winery will honor California Wine Appreciation Week Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Founders Chuck Brigham and Chuck Gardner will offer patrons their last chance to sample Ventura County’s first commercially produced Chardonnay from grapes grown in the county. Brigham said less than 10 cases remains of the 1991 bottling.

Barrel samples of future vintages will also be poured, and tours and wine discounts will be available. The winery is at 2784 Johnson Drive. Call 656-5054.

SERVING SUGGESTION POMEGRANATE SALAD

Seeds from one large pomegranate

One head romaine lettuce, shredded

Two grapefruit, peeled, sectioned and sliced

Two oranges, peeled and sectioned

One avocado, peeled and diced

Walnut oil sauce

In a large bowl, combine lettuce, grapefruit sections, orange sections, avocado and pomegranate seeds. Just before serving, toss with Walnut Oil Sauce. Makes four servings.

Walnut Oil Sauce

1 hard-boiled egg, mashed through sieve

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon minced parsley

1 tablespoon minced basil or mint leaves

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1/2 cup walnut oil

Salt, pepper

In small bowl, combine egg, mustard, parsley, basil and lemon juice. Gradually add oil in thin stream and blend. Add salt and pepper to taste.