THE WINE LIST

Not every Beverly Hills boite charges you an arm and a leg for wine, and Rangoon Racquet Club has a wine list that actually has a number of values--in addition to a well-chosen list of selections.

The 1989 Chateau Woltner Chardonnay, for instance, is $26, not much more than retail. You may also have 1987 Phelps Sauvignon Blanc, $18, a wine with a bit of bottle age; 1989 De Loach Pinot Noir, $24; 1988 Rutherford Hill Merlot, $15, or 1986 Stag’s Leap winery Petite Syrah, $26.

A few wines are a bit on the high side, but generally the wines here offer a variety of styles (from the rich Chardonnay of Mondavi Reserve or Edna Valley to the lean of St. Clement), but you can also find a 1990 Phelps Gewurztraminer, $20, and a number of aged red wines, including a few from France.

Glassware is attractive, service is professional, and the list is organized by price, so it’s easy to find a wine in your price range.

However, look carefully at the wine you order. One wine is listed as 1989 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon--a steal at $25. But the wine you get is Laurel Glen’s second label, Counterpoint, still an excellent wine, but not the wine listed .