Potatoes and Pears: Together at Last

When I was in college, one professor went around the room at the end of the semester asking all the students what they dreamed of doing in their careers. The majority seemed to imagine themselves as heads of nutrition in large medical centers, so when my turn came, I was embarrassed to admit my more frivolous-sounding dream. I said there was no point in even mentioning my dream because it was impossible to achieve. My professor cried out: “Never say that! Someone has to do it, why not you? Let your imagination run wild!”

And so, without further ado, I announced that I wanted to be a food writer and travel all around the world, eating at wonderful restaurants and writing about them. Heads turned toward me in astonishment, but I was elated to hear myself say it aloud for the first time.

It was this memory that came to me 15 years later as I sat at Oscar’s restaurant in Zurich, experiencing the most exciting Swiss cooking I have encountered, under the most unusual of circumstances. The young chef-owner, Peter Buhrer, was dining with me because the restaurant was officially closed the week of my visit. Buhrer would get up between courses, disappearing for no longer than three minutes. I supposed he was conferring with the sous-chef, but by the third course I began to suspect that not only were we alone in the dining room, we were also alone in the entire restaurant. Buhrer was wearing more than one toque: gracious host, impeccable chef, sommelier and waiter.

When he acknowledged that this was indeed the case, I begged him to allow me to accompany him into the kitchen to see exactly what he was up to between courses. It was a delight to observe the perfect mise en place , the organization and industrial beauty of his kitchen.

As Buhrer continued to prepare our dinner, he explained his philosophy of food. He believes that the Swiss have a complex about their cuisine--that for the past 30 years they have closed the door on food based on humble ethnic ingredients in favor of continental haute cuisine made with such high-flown imported ingredients as foie gras and truffles. Buhrer’s personal mission has been to unearth authentic Swiss treasures based on regional products and to perfect and modernize them.

He has spent days in libraries and monasteries researching ancient recipes based on regional ingredients. This is not to say that he turns up his nose at all imported ingredients. One of the most glorious courses he offered was little crepe purses filled with Iranian caviar and creme fraiche. But then he goes on to take two classic Swiss ingredients--potatoes and pears--and whip up the most extraordinary mashed-potato dish I have ever tasted, sweetened with caramelized pears.

In a country of staunch traditionalists, Buhrer, the ultimate innovator, has gone more deeply into tradition in new and exciting ways, creating quite a stir in his hometown of Zurich. Unfortunately, due to civic construction, Oscar’s is now closed. But Buhrer is kept busy with many other culinary activities, including consulting for a line of pressure cookers, writing several cookbooks and a weekly column, creating menus for Swissair’s first-class flights and designing tableware. And he and his wife, a sommelier, are the new parents of a baby girl.

Where will Buhrer pop up next? His dream is to be chef at a restaurant in Napa Valley. I can’t wait. In the meantime, here is his great mashed-potato recipe.

MASHED POTATOES AND PEARS

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 cup water

1 Bartlett pear, peeled, cored and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon white wine or water

2 1/4 pounds boiling potatoes, preferably Yukon gold, peeled and quartered

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup unsalted butter, softened

1 cup heavy whipping cream

Ground nutmeg

Salt

White pepper

Stir sugar and water together in small, heavy saucepan until sugar is fully moistened. Place over medium-high heat and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture boils. Stop stirring and allow to cook until it turns deep amber. Immediately add pear slices. Turn over to coat with caramel, add wine or water and boil few minutes on high heat until most of liquid has evaporated. Empty caramelized pears into bowl and set aside.

Place potatoes and salt in medium saucepan and cover with few inches of cold water. Bring to boil and boil until just tender when pierced with sharp knife, about 20 minutes.

Drain potatoes thoroughly and press through ricer or sieve, or mash by hand. Stir in butter and caramelized pears with wooden spoon. Heat cream in small saucepan and gradually add to potatoes, whisking briefly. Add nutmeg. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Do not overbeat. Keep warm until serving. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

389 calories; 467 mg sodium; 75 mg cholesterol; 23 grams fat; 44 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 1.03 grams fiber.

Note : For silky-smooth mashed potatoes, press through ricer or sieve. Using food processor or blender will make them pasty, and they never get as smooth when they’re mashed.