ON THE RUNWAY / SWIMWEAR : Designers at L.A. Show Ride a Nostalgic Wave

Swimwear designers are as smitten with the hippie look as their ready-to-wear counterparts. Just as the recent Paris collections were rife with bell bottoms and fringe, swimwear for cruise and spring, shown late last week at the California Mart, was studded with buckled belts, rings, strings, cutouts, and made from an assortment of ‘70s-inspired fabrics--bandanna prints, faux suede and batik.

Probably the best news for many women is the disappearance of the high, French-cut leg, so popular in the ‘80s. Instead, there are no-nonsense athletic bodies with halter-style tops, hip-hiding skating skirted suits, boy-cut bottoms, long-lines and a few baby dolls.

One- and two-piece suits reinforced with underwires, padding, inflatable breast enhancers and tummy panels are sure to win the hearts of aging baby boomers.

Here’s what you can expect to see around the pool next year--or sooner, if you’re lucky enough to take a cruise this winter.

* Black-Tie Swimwear. Popular in sparkling and wet-look metallics. Some feature bow-tie tuxedo styling and dressy button details. Others have double-breasted button fronts and singular white camellia blooms atop black bows a la Coco Chanel.

* More Mesh. At Gottex, rose-printed mesh is laid over pink stretch fabric in one- and two-piece styles designed along with a ballet-style tutu cover-up with layers of the printed mesh. New York-based designer Keiko uses mesh blocks in Mondrian-inspired designs set against primary colored and black Miro-esque circle appliques. Anne Cole, one of the first designers to use mesh last season in her signature collection, again added it to midriffs and necklines to add sexiness without necessarily baring skin.

* Prints--Animal, Vegetable and Designer. Animal skin patterns are found in almost every line in true-to-life color combinations as well as fantasy color schemes. equestrian “status” prints reminiscent of Hermes scarf styles.

* Multiculturalism. Influences from China, India, Africa and Spain are making their way into collections by Norma Kamali, Athena, Gottex and Cole of California, among others.

* Too Hip for the Pool. Schoolgirl plaids and biker chic. Styles by Harley-Davidson Swimwear, Jag and Tango Rose incorporate the thrill of the road, while plaid and gingham styles by Betsey Johnson Swims and Anne Cole Collection reflect the Catholic schoolgirl look.