THE WINE LIST

When you see an index with the wine list, a page of 15 half-bottles, one with 13 magnums, and a section called “No Wine Over $30,” you get the notion that the wine program at Luma is carefully thought out.

There are offerings on this eclectic list that represent good value--and there are also some great (and pricey) wines.

The list is huge--more than 350 offerings displayed over 34 pages--and with this comes breadth. The wine lover can find a few gems, such as 1986 Penfolds Bin 389 at $30; 1991 Thomas Fogarty Gewurztraminer, $18, and 1991 Adelsheim Pinot Gris, $21.

Those with deep pockets might begin dinner with a great white such as 1988 Corton-Charlemagne Bonneau du Martray, $110. Those with more limited funds will be happy to find the 1990 DeLoach Zinfandel at $18.

I was pleased to see that there are so many wines with bottle age, and a lot of ’82 Bordeaux. The older wines carry high prices, naturally, but there are some good values, such as 1986 Chateau Meyney for $45.