The Holiday Table : Good Dinners Make Good Neighbors

“After the riots,” says Rory Cunningham of the West Adams Heritage Assn., “there was a question whether we would still do the annual holiday house tour. But then we decided that we wanted to show everyone that the races within the community could put out something cohesive. We really are a neighborhood with pride.”

The West Adams District, just south of Downtown, is a pocket of vintage homes, Craftsman-style bungalows and mansions built between 1911 and 1914. This is Los Angeles at its best, a neighborhood of real diversity, filled with people who genuinely like each other. Every year since 1986 the neighborhood has celebrated the holidays by throwing a super block party, a progressive dinner that moves from one fabulous house to the next.

“There’s so much history in the neighborhood,” says Cunningham. “We charge $25 for the dinner. The money we raise goes to planting trees, graffiti paint-outs, historical building repair. From the proceeds of last year’s tour, we’ve already planted 300 trees on Jefferson Boulevard.”

This year more than 260 guests showed up on a rainy Sunday to celebrate the architectural heritage of the community. They started by eating fried won tons at the home of Suzanne Dickson and Steve Stautzenbach. The entire house was decorated in an animal (and Noah’s Ark) theme, due to the recent arrival of seven-week-old Alex Nichole.

Down the next block in Geraldine DeCohen’s house, neighbors squeezed into the small kitchen to help her fry up Panamanian calamanoilas. The recipe belongs to her husband, Godrick Williams. “You don’t know how much pressure there was,” DeCohen says. “Halfway through, the filling burst out of the cassava patties. The next time around I’ll have everything done by Saturday, in case something goes wrong.”

If some of the kitchens in these large houses are surprisingly small, there are compensations. Linda Scribner, who served the main course, baked chicken with peaches and wine, bought the house because she liked the big formal dining room. “I grew up in Seattle in a house like this,” says the criminal investigator. “When I first moved here 12 years ago, there were crack houses in the block and guys were fighting on the street. But I’ve been in Vietnam carrying .45s, so this neighborhood didn’t scare me.” Scribner knows how to honor the holidays: In the bathroom there were star-shaped candles floating in the bathtub, and on the table were 300 white Battenburg linen napkins. She even went out and bought 60 gold-rimmed china plates for the event. (“I hate paper,” she says.)

Each house was filled with the sound of live music. There were teen-age carolers, a brass quintet, even harpists. At Scribner’s house, neighbor Mitzi Mogul was playing the piano. She says that one of the things that brought her to West Adams was the size of the gardens. “Everyone has large gardens for parties or just planting; I cook with a lot of the stuff that grows in our yard, such as the figs from my tree.”

After the entree, guests moved to Ben Reininger’s house for down-home split-pea soup, fragrant with cumin and browned pork sausage. The soup was welcome on this cool, rainy day, fortifying the guests for the walk down the street to dessert. This was a sumptuous chocolate brioche pudding with brandy sauce (made by pastry chef Shawn Murphy), set out in the home of Gerry Doan and Tamara Clinard. Their house, which was built in 1913 for the then-incredible price of $5,000, is filled with striking stained-glass panels. “As long as I’m in L.A.,” says Doan, “this is as nice a place as I can get. There’s a real sense of community here. We’re all good friends.”

The tour finished with cookies at Beverly Hill’s house, where three generations now live. “I’ve always liked a big house,” says Beverly’s mother, Tina Hill, who turned the old kitchen of her house into a workroom for making dolls. The family hand-crafts exquisite dolls, including Santas, which were surrounded by cinnamon star cookies.

“When we moved here in 1958,” says Hill, “We were one of the first black families to move in; they had signs telling us to move out.” Things have changed.

Here’s easy finger food to go along with Champagne or cocktails. The bundles can be assembled in advance and stored, tightly covered, in the refrigerator up to one day.

HAM AND ASPARAGUS BUNDLES 16 asparagus spears 4 slices prosciutto, halved lengthwise 8 long chives

Cut woody bottoms off asparagus spears. Using vegetable peeler, peel off some of green parts of stems. Cook asparagus in steamer or in small amount boiling water in saucepan until tender-crisp, about 12 minutes. Drain and refresh in cold water.

Cut asparagus in halves crosswise. Stack 4 pieces together with spear ends on top. Wrap each stack with half slice of prosciutto and tie with chives. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 39 calories; 183 mg sodium; 8 mg cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.59 grams fiber.

Suzanne Dickson learned to make these sesame-flavored pork won tons from her mother, who lives in Hawaii. The recipe stretches a little ground meat a long way, making it practical for a large party. Prepare your own sweet - and - sour sauce or use a bottled one and adjust the vinegar and sugar to your liking.

CRISPY FRIED WON TONS 1 pound ground pork or beef 1/2 onion, finely diced 2 green onions, finely chopped 2 tablespoons soy sauce Dash black pepper Dash MSG, optional 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 teaspoon cornstarch 1 1/2 (12-ounce) packages won ton skins 1 egg white, lightly stirred, optional Oil for deep frying Sweet and sour sauce, optional

Combine ground meat, onion, green onions, soy sauce, pepper, MSG, sugar, sesame oil and cornstarch in large bowl. Mix thoroughly. Place 1 teaspoonful mixture in each won ton skin. Fold diagonally, wet edges with dab of water or egg white and press to seal.

Heat oil in deep fryer to 360 degrees. Fry won tons, small batch at time, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Serve with sweet-and-sour sauce. Makes about 70.

Each serving contains about: 31 calories; 68 mg sodium; 3 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.01 grams fiber.

This wonderful recipe has been in Godrick Williams’ family for generations. “It’s a native dish of Panama,” the cabinetmaker says. “When I was living there I used to make Calamanoila every Lenten season.” For speed, Williams uses frozen yuca root instead of fresh. The yuca is cooked and mashed like potatoes, then filled and shaped in advance. Right before serving, the rolls are deep - fried just until lightly golden and flaky-crisp on the outside. Make sure the filling is completely covered with yuca so it doesn’t burst out into the oil.

CALAMANOILA (Beef-Stuffed Cassava Rolls) 3 (1-pound) packages frozen cut-up yuca (cassava root) Salt Peanut oil 1 1/2 pounds lean ground beef 1 teaspoon seasoned salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 1/2 teaspoon crushed dried basil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper 1 tablespoon soy sauce Hot sauce

Place yuca with water to cover in large saucepan. Season generously with salt. Bring to boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer 15 to 20 minutes or until root is tender. Do not stir. Drain. When cool enough to handle, remove hard, thick fibers from pulp. Press pulp through ricer or mash with potato masher. Do not overhandle or yuca will be gummy. Mix in 3 tablespoons peanut oil.

Cook ground beef lightly in skillet. Drain off fat. Mix in seasoned salt, black pepper, basil, onion, crushed hot pepper and soy sauce. Place about 2 tablespoons mashed yuca in palm of hand and lightly flatten. Place 1 heaping teaspoon ground beef in center of yuca. Roll yuca to completely cover meat, shaping into oblong pieces.

Heat peanut oil in deep fryer to 375 degrees. Fry rolls few at time until lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Serve hot with bottled or freshly made hot sauce. Makes about 4 dozen.

Note: Frozen or fresh yuca is available in Chinese or Hispanic markets. Fresh root is large and long with rough thick brown skin. Peel and cut into 3-to-4-inch chunks before cooking.

Test Kitchen Note: Meat mixture holds better if mixed raw and stuffed into yuca without cooking.

Each serving contains about: 80 calories; 108 mg sodium; 8 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.73 gram fiber.

Here’s a great main dish that can be prepared ahead of time. Hostess Linda Scribner found the recipe in a neighbor’s cookbook and adapted it for the tour. Volunteer cooks baked the chicken with the peaches and wine and refrigerated it until guests were due. Then they added the apricot glaze and completed the baking. They used rice cookers for the Festive Rice.

APRICOT-GLAZED CHICKEN WITH PEACHES AND RAISINS 2 (3-pound) chickens, cut in serving pieces, or 6 pounds boned and skinned chicken breasts Salt Minced garlic or garlic powder 1 (12-ounce) package dried peaches 3/4 cup golden raisins 1/4 cup butter, melted 1 cup dry white wine 3/4 cup apricot jam Parsley sprigs

Season chicken with salt and garlic to taste. Place peaches and raisins in bottom of buttered 16x12-inch baking pan. Top with chicken pieces. Brush with melted butter. Drizzle 3/4 cup wine over. Cover loosely with foil and bake at 325 degrees 45 minutes for chicken parts and 30 minutes for breasts.

Warm apricot jam in small saucepan. Press jam through sieve into bowl. Stir in remaining white wine. Uncover chicken and baste with apricot-wine mixture. Continue baking at 325 degrees, uncovered, 30 minutes for chicken parts and 15 to 20 minutes for breasts, basting frequently, until chicken is tender and deeply glazed. Garnish with parsley. Makes 8 to 12 servings.

Note: If chicken is pre-baked and refrigerated, it may be necessary to increase baking time at last stage of cooking.

Each serving contains about: 574 calories; 476 mg sodium; 131 mg cholesterol; 23 grams fat; 49 grams carbohydrates; 41 grams protein; 1.92 grams fiber.

FESTIVE RICE 4 stalks celery, sliced 1/2 cup canned water chestnuts, thinly sliced 1 (8- to 10-ounce) package frozen petite peas 2 tablespoons butter 4 cups steamed rice Salt, pepper

Combine celery, water chestnuts, peas and butter in saucepan. Place over medium heat and heat through. Toss with rice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about: 396 calories; 117 mg sodium; 8 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 81 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 1 gram fiber.

Ben Reininger’s hearty split pea soup becomes even more delicious when the sausage is added. You’ll be surprised how easy it is to make.

SPLIT PEA SOUP WITH SAUSAGE 2 cups split peas, rinsed 6 cups water 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin, or to taste 1 pound pork sausage Garlic Pita Toast

Soak split peas in water 2 hours. Place peas with soaking water, salt and cumin to taste in medium saucepan. Simmer, covered, about 1 1/2 hours or until smooth and soft, stirring occasionally. Add more water if needed for soupy consistency. Adjust seasonings to taste.

Just before serving, pan-fry chopped sausage until done. Serve soup in individual bowls. Sprinkle over soup and serve hot with Garlic Pita Toast. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 515 calories; 918 mg sodium; 43 mg cholesterol; 24 grams fat; 51 grams carbohydrates; 26 grams protein; 2.47 grams fiber.

Garlic Pita Toast 4 pita breads 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 2 tablespoons virgin olive oil

Cut pita in quarters and separate top from bottom. Place on baking sheet. Combine garlic and olive oil. Brush over pita wedges.

Bake at 400 degrees about 7 minutes, brushing with more garlic oil, until lightly toasted. Makes 4 servings.

TOMATO-ROSEMARY SALAD 3 tomatoes 1 red onion 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary 1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley Salt Virgin olive oil Balsamic vinegar

Cut tomatoes into 1/2-inch dice. Chop red onion into 1/4-inch pieces. Combine tomatoes, onion, rosemary, parsley and salt to taste.

Toss with vinaigrette dressing composed of 3 parts olive oil and 1 part balsamic vinegar. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 119 calories; 84 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.79 gram fiber.

This extravagant dessert was prepared by Shawn Murphy, former pastry chef at Arcadia restaurant in New York. Now working for a caterer, Murphy volunteered to help out at the dessert house. Two days before the tour, she prepared pan after pan of this brioche pudding. Just before the crowd arrived, she cut it into wedges and warmed them in the oven. To speed up service, she pumped out the custard sauce from a squeeze bottle.

CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING WITH BRANDY CUSTARD SAUCE (From “The Arcadia Seasonal Mural and Cookbook”) 1 (9x5-inch) loaf homemade or store-bought Brioche, cut into 10 to 12 slices 1 cup unsalted butter, melted 1/2 pound bittersweet chocolate, preferably Callebaut 3 cups heavy whipping cream 1 cup milk 1 cup sugar 12 egg yolks 1 teaspoon vanilla Dash salt Brandy Custard Sauce

Brush Brioche slices with melted butter and toast in 425-degree oven until lightly golden. Chop chocolate into rough pieces. Place in bowl set over very hot water until melted.

Combine whipping cream and milk in saucepan and heat until almost boiling. Whisk sugar and egg yolks in large bowl until well blended. Slowly whisk in cream and milk. Strain mixture and skim off any foam. Add mixture to melted chocolate, whisking constantly. Stir in vanilla and salt.

Arrange toasted bread in 2 overlapping rows in 13x9-inch baking pan. Pour chocolate mixture over bread. Cover with plastic wrap and place smaller pan on top of bread so slices stay submerged. Add weights if necessary. Let stand 1 hour or until bread is soaked through. Remove weights, pan and plastic wrap, then cover baking pan with foil. Punch holes in foil to allow steam to escape.

Place in larger pan of hot water and bake at 325 degrees 1 hour 45 minutes, or until liquid has been absorbed and pudding looks glossy. Cut into squares or wedges and serve warm on pool of Brandy Custard Sauce. Makes 14 servings.

Each serving contains about: 975 calories; 615 mg sodium; 544 mg cholesterol; 70 grams fat; 75 grams carbohydrates; 15 grams protein; 0.44 gram fiber.

This recipe makes two loaves; use the remaining loaf for second bread pudding or for sandwiches. Add cinnamon and raisins or garlic and herbs for a savory sandwich bread if desired.

Brioche 1 cup milk 1/2 cup plus 3/4 teaspoon sugar 1/4 ounce dry yeast or 1/2 ounce cake yeast 1 1/4 cups butter 2 teaspoons salt 6 cups flour 5 eggs

Heat milk to warm temperature (not more than 105 degrees) with 3/4 teaspoon sugar. Stir in yeast and let stand few minutes to soften yeast.

Using heavy-duty mixer fitted with paddle, cream butter with 1/2 cup sugar and salt. Slowly add flour and combine thoroughly. Add eggs, 1 at time, beating well after each addition. Slowly beat in milk. Beat until batter is smooth and silky.

Place in greased bowl and let rise in warm place until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours. Punch dough down, cover and let rise overnight or up to 2 days in refrigerator (Dough is extremely soft, and chilling makes it easier to handle.)

Divide dough in half. With well-floured hands, shape each into loaf. Place in 2 greased (9x5-inch) loaf pans. Cover and let rise in warm place until doubled (may take few hours, if dough is cold). Carefully place in 350-degree oven (dough can fall, if jarred). Cut slash on top. Bake until bread is golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped on bottom, about 30 minutes. Makes 2 (9x5-inch) loaves.

Brandy Custard Sauce 3 egg yolks 1/3 cup sugar 1/3 cup milk 1 cup heavy whipping cream Dash salt 1/4 cup brandy

Beat yolks with sugar in mixer bowl until blended. Combine milk and whipping cream in saucepan. Bring to boil. Whisk 1/2 cup of cream mixture into yolk mixture. Slowly whisk back into saucepan. Continue whisking over medium-low heat until sauce begins to thicken.

Do not let boil. Remove from heat. Add salt and brandy. Strain into bowl and cool quickly. Serve chilled. Makes about 1 3/4 cups.

Shape these cookies any way you like, using holiday cutters. Ice them, if desired, and decorate with colored candy sprinkles or edible gold dust.

CINNAMON STAR COOKIES 1 cup butter, softened 3/4 cup sugar 1 egg 1 teaspoon vanilla 3 cups flour 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon salt Icing, optional Gold dust, optional

Cream butter and sugar in large mixer bowl until light and fluffy. Add egg and vanilla. Beat until smooth.

In medium bowl, sift together flour, cinnamon and salt. Add dry ingredients to butter mixture. Knead in bowl until soft dough forms.

On lightly floured surface, roll out dough with floured rolling pin until 1/4-inch thick. Cut out cookies with star-shaped cutter, about 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches wide. Transfer to greased baking sheet. Bake at 325 degrees 15 minutes or until golden brown. Remove to rack and cool completely.

Spread or drizzle Icing on half of cookies. Allow Icing to harden. Use small paint brush to apply gold dust to tops of all cookies. Makes about 7 dozen.

Each serving contains about: 44 calories; 32 mg sodium; 9 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.01 gram fiber.

Icing 1 cup plus 2 teaspoons powdered sugar 3 tablespoons milk Stir powdered sugar and milk together until smooth. Keep covered.