Fresh Starters

The classic first courses for the holiday season--smoked salmon, oysters, shrimp and caviar--may still be popular, but I sense a desire for fresh flavors. Our tastes are changing.

During a recent trip to Italy, I discovered several dishes on restaurant menus that seem like perfect ways to start a holiday meal. At Cantinetta Antinori in Florence, rustic bread was toasted and topped with steamed red chard; it was as beautiful as it was delicious. In the small Umbrian town of Torgiano, I found an arugula salad tossed with mushrooms and Parmesan cheese at a charming restaurant named Le Tre Veselle. And all over Italy you find simply grilled mushroom caps used to begin a meal.

The key to these is the quality and freshness of the ingredients. The choice of olive oil is especially critical, even though you don’t use much of it. I prefer a rich, full-bodied extra-virgin olive oil (like those made in Tuscany or Umbria) for these three dishes, though you may prefer something lighter (such as an oil made in Liguria).

There are many advantages to these starters: They are light, easy to make in advance and much less expensive than most of the traditional holiday first courses. Above all, they make a great first impression.

Though this first course is somewhat robust, it can successfully precede grilled fish or chicken. A knife and fork are in order, for unless the chard is coarsely chopped (which is not as pretty), it’s not finger food. The younger the chard, the more delicate and tender are the leaves. The bruschetta can be served with grated Parmesan cheese or a lemon wedge, if desired.

CANTINETTA ANTINORI’S BRUSCHETTA WITH STEAMED CHARD AND GARLIC 1 large bunch red Swiss chard, stems and thick ribs trimmed 3 tablespoons Warm Garlic Oil 1/2 teaspoon balsamic vinegar 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon salt Freshly ground pepper Bruschetta

Place leaves in steamer basket with 1-inch boiling water. Steam, covered, until chard is tender but still retains some texture, about 4 minutes, turning as necessary. Transfer to bowl.

Toss with Warm Garlic Oil, vinegar, lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste. Adjust seasonings to taste. (Can be made several hours ahead and kept at room temperature.) Arrange kale attractively on Bruschetta slices. Bake at 400 degrees until hot, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 209 calories; 381 mg sodium; 1 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.55 gram fiber.

Bruschetta 4 baguette slices, 3/4-inch thick, at least 4-inches across (it may be necessary to cut bread on diagonal for large slice) 1 tablespoon Warm Garlic Oil Salt Freshly ground pepper

Brush baguette slices with 1 tablespoon Warm Garlic Oil (use some of minced garlic, if desired). Bake on middle rack of 400-degree oven until just lightly toasted, not hard, about 8 minutes. (Can be made 1 day ahead and stored in airtight container once cooled.)

The amount of garlic can be adjusted to your taste. If you prefer a milder taste, the minced garlic pieces should be strained out after the oil is heated. Keep any leftover oil refrigerated until you are ready to use it.

Warm Garlic Oil 1/2 cup fruity, full-flavored olive oil 3 large cloves garlic, minced

Combine olive oil and garlic in small pan or microwavable dish. Gently heat on stove top or in microwave oven. Strain garlic, if desired. (Can be refrigerated as long as 3 days.) Gently reheat before using. Makes 1/2 cup.

Le Tre Veselle used sliced small porcini mushrooms. I have substituted cremini mushrooms, which have a deeper flavor than cultivated white mushrooms although they, too, can be used. This salad must be tossed about 10 minutes before serving to allow the mushrooms to absorb the dressing.

ARUGULA SALAD WITH MUSHROOMS AND PARMESAN CHEESE 4 lightly packed cups young arugula, chilled, stems trimmed 12 large cremini mushrooms, stems trimmed, thinly sliced 1/2 cup diced outer flesh of plum tomatoes, chilled 1/2 cup Warm Garlic Oil 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar 1/4 teaspoon sea or kosher salt Freshly ground pepper 3 ounces paper-thin (or broken) slices Parmesan cheese, at room temperature

Place arugula, mushrooms and tomatoes in large bowl. Toss with Warm Garlic Oil and vinegar. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss until well mixed. Adjust seasonings to taste.

Divide among 4 chilled dinner-size plates. Arrange cheese slices attractively on top of each salad. Let stand 10 minutes before serving. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 353 calories; 552 mg sodium; 17 mg cholesterol; 34 grams fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 0.35 gram fiber.

Le Tre Veselle used fresh porcini mushroom caps in this simple dish. Portobellos are the best substitute that I could find; try to select firm mushroom caps that are about 4 to 5 inches in diameter. The hot mushroom is served on red leaf lettuce leaves, garnished with paper-thin slices of fresh garlic and a sprinkle of diced fresh tomato--a magnificent sight, especially to mushroom (and garlic) lovers. Generously brush both sides of the mushroom with the warm oil at least 10 minutes in advance of cooking to flavor them. Be sure to save enough oil for a brushing before they are grilled (or broiled) and after.

GRILLED PORTOBELLOS WITH GARLIC OIL 4 portobello mushroom caps, each about 4 to 5 inches in diameter 1/4 cup Warm Garlic Oil Salt Freshly ground pepper 8 to 12 red leaf lettuce leaves 2 small cloves garlic, sliced paper-thin 1/4 cup diced outer shell of plum tomatoes

Clean mushrooms gently with soft brush. Prepare medium-hot fire for grilling or set broiler rack 10 inches from broiler heat.

Arrange mushroom caps on baking sheet. Generously brush Warm Garlic Oil on both sides of mushrooms. Season to taste generously with salt and pepper. Let stand at least 10 minutes.

To grill, place mushrooms on grill, rounded side down, until cooked, about 4 minutes. Use tongs to turn. Grill until browned and tender but not mushy, about 2 to 3 minutes.

To broil, place caps, rounded side down, on baking sheet. Broil about 3 to 4 minutes (do not overcook). Use tongs to turn. Broil until browned and tender but not mushy, about 3 to 4 minutes.

To serve, arrange lettuce leaves on dinner-size plates. Place mushroom on top. Garnish with sliced garlic and diced tomato. Gently brush mushroom, garlic and tomato with oil. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 149 calories; 80 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.87 gram fiber.